Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Only update so far is today I got a winch mounted to my trailer, it looks alittle weird but now I should be able to load/unload the car onto my trailer by myself anywhere.

I'll get a battery for it tomorrow and try it out.

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

NOTE:

You may have noticed this thread has been moved.

SAU Admin have decided to run a new section for "Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups"

As such your thread is a prime example of what we wanted to house in this section.

We have left links in the sections you originally posted also to allow easy access to the threads new home.

Any issues, please feel free to pm myself or N1GTR.

Cheers Col

  • 3 weeks later...

Yeah mate did Wakefield and OP GP earlier this year with sau. Only a 1:17 around Wakefield, first ever time in the car. Was way more confident in it at OP GP but was concentrating on lines and smoothness rather than outright pace. Didn't get any laptimes there though.

nice car Ben - might have to hassle you for a visit one day.

I'm a stone throw from the crossroads, you probably go past my house everytime you go to Penrith.

good stuff mate! you must be pleased to get it out there. :P

Of course, it's no angry GTR but it serves its purpose well and that is a good time at the track on a non-existent budget (I haven't spent a cent on it for repairs or maintenance after 2 trackdays).

  • 4 weeks later...

Whooooo started first go this arvo!! My mechanic thinks ive been trying to kick it over before the fuel pump has had long enough to get some fuel to the engine so I waited an extra 30sec and it started immediately, last time it was started was 3wks ago :D

I added some roll bar padding and 2 stickers ;)

That is my only update lol

Yup the morning courses were too tight for the car, thats almost the most lock ive ever used (compared to a circuit) so had to learn how it reacted to so much lock. The rear end just had too much grip and kept pushing the car, the front tyres werent even warm let alone sticky.

Spoke to Phil Ward at Oran Park on Sunday and he said next time to remove the front sway bar and that will allow it to turn tight corners, thats what they have to do during wet races otherwise they understeer off the track.

Was a great experience though, gave me heaps more confidence in the car.

  • 3 weeks later...

Time to add some aero updates to try and make it more stable at high speeds.

Bought a sheet of 3000x1500x2mm for $170 which will be used to make an undertray as the majority of my car is completely open with no floor at all.

I'll make it in 3 sections so that the front + rear can be removed if required without having to remove the entire piece. The middle section should take no more than an hour to cut+fit because their is plenty of bracing available but the front section i'll have to add bracing so I can see that taking a few afternoons to complete.

post-1296-1253087375_thumb.jpg

Looks like we need to change suppliers if you got it for that price Ben.

what are you going to cut it with? best thing for 4/5 inch grinders are alloy blades that look like wood blades - or you can use a regular wood circular saw to cut it out.

Goodluck, be interesting to hear your results after its completed

Yup, I think coz the guy I got it from orders alot of it for his work he probably get a better buy price.

My little jigsaw will cut through it just fine, thats what I used to cut the door trims for my last gtr without any issues.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Been ages since I updated this so....

Splurged abit of money over the past week because I attended the CircuitClub Wakefield Park trackday on Australia day however ran out of time to set it all up so will have to test it next trackday.

A set of new secondhand Yokohama Avon tyres. I use the Formula Ford size tyre but this time I grabbed 4x rear tyres which are and inch taller and wider than what i've previously used (the front tyres from a Formula Ford). They have easily 50% tread and cost me $200 for the set.

med_article_17261-img_0.jpg

RaceLogic Performance Box for all my timing needs. Haven't been able to play with it yet because I didn't realise it needed permanent power, thought it would have an internal battery so will have to get it wired into my car. It has sooo many options I get lost just even reading the manual, however just from playing with the device here at home I think the actual screen size should be larger, gonna be hard to read the numbers whilst doing 200kmh. Picked this up for $515.

PerformanceBox.jpg

Also bought a GoPro HD Motorsports. Seen this camera probably a year ago but it always had pathetic sound however from what I have read this new High Def model (1080p @ 30fps) supposedly fixes that problem along with some other new features. Comes with a handful of small connectors and mounting pads however on my first test video tonight (just to the shops n back at dusk) I still had issues getting it to sit at the angle I wanted so just need some more practice with it. I'll grab the rollbar mounting accessory and also a spare battery (2.5hrs recording time for each battery). In 720p mode it requires about 100mb per minute of video so it's quite heavy on the 16gb SDHC memory card I got for it (wanted a 32gb but nobody local had stock). All up it cost me $460 with the 16gb memory card.

Go_Pro_camera.jpg

Next was some CAM's stickers from ebay. I'm too lazy to make this stuff myself and been busy with work so it's way easier to just hand over the cash and pick it up at the post office the following day. At first glance im not even sure they will fit on my side windows haha. Total cost was about $45

cams_full_set.jpg

On my list now is a window net + fittings, a larger oil cooler and alluminium intake and also new windows to replace the scratched set I currently have.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...