Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i plan to get Subwoofer, Amp and rear spearker.

i got around 1k for the budget.

for R&B music and House music, plz help

cheers

Alpine Type R 12" sub + appropriate amp and cabling kit will set you back around $600. Awesome sub, will rattle your innards with ease.

Then for $400 you can get some pretty sweet speakers and pay for installation.

what radio are you using?

I'll base my system around that.

I second that, plus, what brand/model of front speakers do you have ?

what model of car is it going in?(you didnt say if it was skyline or not?)

http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=332

This is a dual voice coil, can either get 2 ohm or 4 ohm. 500rms. Sounds like you have two 12's in the boot with the right amp of course.

I recommend a awesome amp. MRD-1005 Alpine which they dont stock anymore but is tops cause its a 1000rms mono block amp which means you can always add another 500rms sub into the mix, and in the meantime still run your 1xType R Alpine to potential but always be sure to set your gains correct. Cause you dont want a popped sub.

Another good amp which my friend is using and it pumps is http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=374 at 500rms at 2 ohm you will love the sound of that type r. :rofl:

And prices are much cheaper at jb than alpines site.

So for under $1000 ull have nice clean,crisp bass..

Just my oppinion thou, hope it helps. :D

Edited by DRFT31

stuff alpine every other person has that shit go different

im doin MTX...its so madd especially for rnb...we just installed full setup into my mates 34 and it came out mickey mouse...you should be able to do rears, amp and a subbie

one more thing!

this is my dairy drive. it is 08 Toyota Corolla. the original head unit already have mp3, built in buletooth and Ipod.

if i upgrade the sound system, could i use the original head unit.? or suggest to get a aftermarket one?

plz help

cheers

in some cases they recommend you change the head unit to go with the speakers and stuff but i kno most cars these days all have fair decent systems in them, the new commodores have bose sound systems head units are pretty good but most change so they can get a better system going, u do have bluetooth and ipod which is a good thing......but dude IMO its prob not 100% necessary if you are gona run all speakers of an amp but you have to make sure the factory unit has additional amp outputs i suspect no, my mates new mazda 3 didnt have any so he changed the whole unit to a touch pioneer dvd player

also does ur head unit control anything else cuz holdens are tied in with like the cruise control or some shit cant really remember

one more thing!

this is my dairy drive. it is 08 Toyota Corolla. the original head unit already have mp3, built in buletooth and Ipod.

if i upgrade the sound system, could i use the original head unit.? or suggest to get a aftermarket one?

plz help

cheers

Find out if the original headunit has RCA out. If so hooking it up to Amps etc is no problem

Find out if the original headunit has RCA out. If so hooking it up to Amps etc is no problem

Also check if it has a sub control. If your going to run the speakers off the head unit and just add a sub and amp, sub control is vital, or else the bass will overpower the treble in most cases. Plus who can be stuffed always changing the bass output manually on the amp. But main thing is just check if it has RCA's like said above.

Btw Alpine much better than MTX just from previous experience. More bang for your buck! :banana:

one more thing!

this is my dairy drive. it is 08 Toyota Corolla. the original head unit already have mp3, built in buletooth and Ipod.

if i upgrade the sound system, could i use the original head unit.? or suggest to get a aftermarket one?

plz help

cheers

up to you.I have a 2003 version and the whole lot has been changed. source wont be the cleanest thing. if I was doing that car I would start from scratch. that said you only have $1k to play with. I did a $1k job yesterday. 10" prefab box clarion APX1301 (300W mono amp), clarion SRW1051(10" sub), Clarion CZ209A (cd/mp3/ipod) and used the stock speakers.

if you were to do the radio -clarion DUZ386 would do it ($400 or so.) and add the BT dongle. that or go the whole hog with a MAX686BT.(dvd/bt/usb)

toyota use a funky mounting system on those cars so the mounts will have to be done before you do the speakers. would suggest doing the front speakers (since you are not going to be facing the rear window whilst driving) instead of the back ones.

the stock F10 unit powers 4 speakers and thats it. no RCA out or the like.

that should give you something to chew on.

Edited by Chris Rogers
hi guys,

i plan to get Subwoofer, Amp and rear spearker.

i got around 1k for the budget.

for R&B music and House music, plz help

cheers

if u want a sub, sub amp, 4 ch . amp and rear speakers (dont forget wires/cabling, theyre quite pricy and most time consuming shit when installing) i would recomend strathfield brands. mtx, pioneer . . .

so what your saying is you already have decent front speakers and headunit? if u r running stock speakers up front and a shitty head unit i would recomend u starting from there. the best sound comes from good front splits being powered by a good amp and headunit.

however if there good and have amp outputs i would be starting off with a good 4 channel amp and rear speakers. dont get 6x9's if ur going a sub total waste. actually dont get 6x9 at all there shit in my eyes as the outer cone has a lag as such, dont get splits in the rear either as some do (parcel shelf is already ear level)

leave the sub till last! get ur front and rears running 1st with a nice amp.

i got rid of my type R sub when i got rb26 conversion, subs r more of a 'look at me while drive past and hear my doof doof'. i'd rather listen to the lovely sound of my engine along with my oppenents in the ca beside me. my full type R system with out a sub is all i need. but hey, everyones diff.

It's a buyers market. I would suggest you head over to Mobile Electronics Australia and look in the 4sale section. There are some bargains on very good gear going.

While you're there get some good advice to suit your needs. Only advice I can give you:

1) STAY AWAY FROM JB OR STRATHIES FOR INSTALLATION

2) speakers - Audition them, no one can tell you what will sound good to your ears !!!!!!Decide on a price point and look at models in that bracket.

3) If your determined to keep the HU for easthetics then a simple LOC ( line out convertor ) will connect the Head Unit to your new Amp/s. Dave Navone models are the best and quitest.

4) Don't get suckered into the hype with "brand name" interconnects and cable.

5) Unless it's a name brand, avoid gear that boasts rediculous amounts of power output or handling, they usually fail at everything !!!!!!!!!

1k,

Jaycar Splits $140

Jaycar 4x100 amp $300

Jaycar 12" DVC sub $300

Jaycar 12" box $50

eDead 2 Sound deadening bulk pack $150

Jaycar wiring and siet $100

nice deck with sub control, don't waste money on rear speakers, just rip them out

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...