Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump Pipe Wont Make A Difference?

StOjA32

By StOjA32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

StOjA32 Enthusiast

StOjA32

Posted
Posted

ive just started putting a few go fast bits on my R32 GTST.

so far .. FMIC, POD, Power FC, 040 fuel pump, and zorst.

my mechanic is putting all of this together and was telling me that my car wont go any different if i changed the dump pipe or not.

is this true?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259831-dump-pipe-wont-make-a-difference/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Travis Trayhern Proficient

Travis Trayhern

Posted
Posted
ive just started putting a few go fast bits on my R32 GTST.

so far .. FMIC, POD, Power FC, 040 fuel pump, and zorst.

my mechanic is putting all of this together and was telling me that my car wont go any different if i changed the dump pipe or not.

is this true?

i got a better idea for you get a new mechanic then hit the search button.

Mark_McQ Enthusiast

Mark_McQ

Posted
Posted (edited)

The stock bellmouth type on the 20/25 is more efficient than those supposed 'high flow' dump pipes. Not only can the high-flow ones sometimes stop the wastegate penny opening properly, but in some cases you can experience overboosting because the gases can't get out quick enough.

Edited by Mark_McQ
GTR-32U Mentor

GTR-32U

Posted
Posted
The stock bellmouth type on the 20/25 is more efficient than those supposed 'high flow' dump pipes. Not only can the high-flow ones sometimes stop the wastegate penny opening properly, but in some cases you can experience overboosting because the gases can't get out quick enough.

Utter Crap ! Have you actually taken a factory dump pipe off and had a look inside of it ? You will find that the wastegate dumps the Gas straight into a flat surface which is not even tapered toward the rest of the pipe. Open Bellmouth type worked just fine on my RB20. Boost came on earlier, ramped up to max Boost faster and top end power increased also

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

^^ exactly right. Stock dump pipes are garbage. You will notice that your turbo spools up a bit quicker too and the wastegate flap only has the potential to get stuck if you have a split dump pipe. Go bellmouth.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)
ive just started putting a few go fast bits on my R32 GTST.

so far .. FMIC, POD, Power FC, 040 fuel pump, and zorst.

my mechanic is putting all of this together and was telling me that my car wont go any different if i changed the dump pipe or not.

is this true?

The stock bellmouth type on the 20/25 is more efficient than those supposed 'high flow' dump pipes. Not only can the high-flow ones sometimes stop the wastegate penny opening properly, but in some cases you can experience overboosting because the gases can't get out quick enough.

Are you the same mechanic?!?! My god, what utter rubbish.

Get a good bellmouth, all in one, dump pipe or a well known split pipe (yes there are cases where the wastegate hits the dump pipe, but this is usually an issue with aftermarket internal gate turbos, not a stock one.)

TRUST me, it will make a difference. However you should have done it before you got the power FC tuned, as the stock dump is a restriction and you wouldn't have had the best gains when you got the FC tuned.

Edited by PM-R33
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
Are you the same mechanic?!?! My god, what utter rubbish.

Get a good bellmouth, all in one, dump pipe or a well known split pipe (yes there are cases where the wastegate hits the dump pipe, but this is usually an issue with aftermarket internal gate turbos, not a stock one.)

TRUST me, it will make a difference. However you should have done it before you got the power FC tuned, as the stock dump is a restriction and you wouldn't have had the best gains when you got the FC tuned.

I got a JJR stainless BELLMOUTH dump/front... Threw the stocky out, forgot to take a photo, but it is pretty much flat over the wastegate half :banana:

best mod i ever did was that with a catco 3" cat(already had a catback), so much more responsive, rolls for longer when i lift off etc, and heaps better economy!

andymoocow Grand Master

andymoocow

Posted
Posted

Yesterday my brother put a new DUMP pipe on his Stagea Wagon. He had cat back exhaust before hand. He said its the Best money he could ever spend, he said it sounded good before, now it sounds like a car possessed, not to mention much better spool up and mid range.

I got one on my R33, its a BATMBL dump, love it to bits.

I know its not an R32 like yours, but the difference will blow you away.

nzm033 Proficient

nzm033

Posted
Posted

U will definately notice a differnce. I did the same things as you.....FMIC catback pod but no dump pipe and i could feel it was restricted

After i installed a split dump pipe the turbo would spool harder and faster....it was like it always wanted to spool. I should have got the dump pipe before anything else

U'll love it

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted
+20 for new mechanic ;)

Don't give your car to a tosspot who thinks that the stock dump pipe is a quality item.

The next thing you know, you'll be parked on the side of the road with a 500m long oil slick in your wake, with parts of the engine scattered all over the place because he thought you could advance your timing 40 degrees with 35 lbs of boost on regular unleaded whilst using the quality stock injectors.

Dude, really......................... Find someone else.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...