Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Got and installed my new intake on the V35.

I also put a new K&N panel filter in. Its the same model number as a VS 3.8 litre commadore. A360.

It looks pretty good to me, i might use a longer piece of silicon pipe for the end nearest the box, but just to neaten it up a bit.

The sound is way better in the higher ranges and when the throttle is nice and wide open.

Down low, its great, no more noise than stock until you give it a hit.

Photos attached and a video with a digital camera.

The sound quality isnt great, but you'll get the idea i hope.

IMGP4553.jpg

IMGP4556.jpg

IMGP4558.jpg

(I dont know how to add the video to the thread)

Edited by V35 Matt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259921-new-intake-on-the-v35/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

got the pipe off ebay. No idea what brand it is, but i like the stainless look rather than the plastic look of the z pipe.

Self install with a mechanic mate. But having seen it installed, anyone could do it without any worries at all.

Took 15 mins, as we removed some of the excess plastic from the box and the intake.

Now the muffler to install and it'll be complete as far as external mods go.

Hope to get better video over the weekend of the engine and the sound of the car going past.

wanna ask for some suggestion.. i heard somewhere that the oem 350z intake pipe is actually better, compared to stainless steel pipe, due to reason that stainless-steel pipe gets hotter easier and faster than plastic, so actually hot air are being suxked in..

Anyone can help to explain if this is right or wrong in anyway?

I do kinda agree if someone told me plastic gets hot the same way just like stainless steel... but it does also get colder faster than plastic rite?

this is the reason i still cant decide wat kind of intake i should buy and install on my v35.. ;)

The Truth from 350z is that the Intake is already a great design on 350z, They just need to use a Drop panel filter and it's already Perfect. But if you want the Noise you can go for the POD (ie JWT pop Charger). also most of the tuner in japan uses the SS tube like Matt did. So about the heatsoak i'm not too sure, if you want can just heatwrap it or so.

myself uses the CF Tube on mine with the K&N Drop in Filter.

P1000129.jpg

to be honest if you want to get the Z tube. at least get the one from US version. It doesn't have that Water Collector/Resonator on the tube like the Australia version does.

Cheers

Is that what it is!?? I asked the question on the g35 forum a while ago and no one could tell me exactly what it was or how come theirs didn't have it. Oh well...still does the job I guess.

Is that what it is!?? I asked the question on the g35 forum a while ago and no one could tell me exactly what it was or how come theirs didn't have it. Oh well...still does the job I guess.

Yeah, that stupid appendix thing is a resonator. The US models didn't get it. I am pretty sure the Japanese cars did. It's for NVH.

Honestly, if you bought a 350Z you shouldn't be allergic to a bit of induction noise.

Yeah the stainless steel pipe does get a bit warm but I think it would be hard to notice a difference in power compared to say a CF one, would probably only show up on a dyno over a number of runs. I should probably feel how warm mine gets now since I put the Kinetix Plenum on, would help a bit I imagine as that isn't metal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...