Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah helps keep engine nosie down.

Isnt that "bad"~? :)

but that "resonator" is so bloody hard to take it off....maybe I dont have the correct tool, or just the angel to unscrew it from the top is just bit weird for my arm. took almost 1hr to get it sit in the storage box

Not necessarily if you're keeping the stock box setup (which is quite good).

The stock box's airflow characteristics may rely on having the resonator there. The blocking/removal of it may cause unwanted turbulence etc.

I'm not 100% on this but personally i thought i felt a decrease in response when i blocked mine off. YMMV.

Not necessarily if you're keeping the stock box setup (which is quite good).

The stock box's airflow characteristics may rely on having the resonator there. The blocking/removal of it may cause unwanted turbulence etc.

I'm not 100% on this but personally i thought i felt a decrease in response when i blocked mine off. YMMV.

Yeah the sound you get when you take it off or have straight intake is the turbulence through the intake.

It then sounds "tough" :) but it slightly slows air intake and thats why we have them.

But if you have straight intake and high flow filters the gains out weigh the small losses you get from taking out the resonators.

Yeah the sound you get when you take it off or have straight intake is the turbulence through the intake.

It then sounds "tough" :blink: but it slightly slows air intake and thats why we have them.

But if you have straight intake and high flow filters the gains out weigh the small losses you get from taking out the resonators.

I'm all for sounding "tuff" but why not have both if you're running panel filter, i.e. high flow panel and better airflow characteristics..unless you damn it all to hell with a pod etc haha.

I've got a high flow filter and z tube in mine with stock box and personally, i love hearing the engine whine etc more than induction noise hehe. To each their own! :action-smiley-069:

fox i may be interested man. pm on my msn lol..im there its just always appear offline. hehe

I've just got replied from the guy who Blistc bought from, he doesnt hav discounts price for GB~

"This particular item is actually something that we import. Due to this, we are unable to offer a group buy discount on it. We also do not keep very many in stock."

and this is how much he wants,

"The total for the part and shipping will be $151.15. This total does not include any taxes, duties, or other fees that may apply. The price is also listed in USD."

I might ask EVO-R for the GB price, thanks

Edited by FoxV35
  • 1 month later...

post-55745-1247814097.jpg Just installed a Nismo Cold Air Intake Kit! for 2003-06 350Z (cost US$288.95 + shipping US$87.10)

post-55745-1247814708_thumb.jpg filter located at the front fender

post-55745-1247814786_thumb.jpg filter shown w/ tire and fender liner removed

post-55745-1247814609_thumb.jpg flexi rubber was re-used co'z silicon coupler wont fit in MAF sensor housing

post-55745-1247814560_thumb.jpg shown with bypass valve

post-55745-1247814512_thumb.jpg replaced by 350Z inlet hose, co'z v35 inlet hose is located on top of the intake (cost AU$43)

post-55745-1247814450_thumb.jpg almost done

post-55745-1247815716_thumb.jpg done (out of pocket total AU$521.57)

does it worth it??? DUNNO!

Edwin,

Do you like the intake?

I purchased the same one on ebay. Several weeks later it still didnt turn up so i asked whats going on and it turns out that they ran out of stock, but never told me....

I got the Fujita instead. Much cheaper and uglier than the nismo, but it was available and came with a free energy drink, ha ha.

Installed it today and im quite pleased with the intake noise, sounds better than expected. I will post pics tomorrow.

Edwin,

Do you like the intake?

I purchased the same one on ebay. Several weeks later it still didnt turn up so i asked whats going on and it turns out that they ran out of stock, but never told me....

I got the Fujita instead. Much cheaper and uglier than the nismo, but it was available and came with a free energy drink, ha ha.

Installed it today and im quite pleased with the intake noise, sounds better than expected. I will post pics tomorrow.

just did a test drive...

happy with the sounds and a bit of power... looks better too!

... and yeah it does worth my hard earned $$$

got mine from performancenissanparts (eBay US), took them almost 3 weeeks, i think run out of stock too but delivery is about 4days.

May I ask why didn't you guys go with the JWT?

I was thinkin' btw the Nismo ( High price = high quality = branding for me! But I know it's actually AEM.... ) and the JWT.

I have a slight preference towards buying the JWT because of the excellent feedback of the engine noise is makes...

With the Nismo and Fujita, how would you all rate the engine noise?

PS I have never heard any of the above 3 intakes in person so am basing my purchase on the feedback of others.

I dont think there is anything special about the JWT.

I really wanted the nismo, but the fujita was next choice as i like how the intake tube is metal (aliminium?) and looks almost factory as its painted similar to the plastic engine cover. Note i removed the fujita sticker.

Pics:

post-48748-1247888170_thumb.jpg

post-48748-1247888192_thumb.jpg

p.s. yes the intake noise is awesome. i dont think it will be too different to any other intake with an open filter.

May I ask why didn't you guys go with the JWT?

I was thinkin' btw the Nismo ( High price = high quality = branding for me! But I know it's actually AEM.... ) and the JWT.

I have a slight preference towards buying the JWT because of the excellent feedback of the engine noise is makes...

With the Nismo and Fujita, how would you all rate the engine noise?

PS I have never heard any of the above 3 intakes in person so am basing my purchase on the feedback of others.

Well this is mine :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...