Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

YES!, go for it as im going to get mine done in a few weeks. Im adding a another t28 ball bearing turbo for my main turbo and leaving the t28 ceramic turbine one as my second turbo. This way you will run at least 18psi boost.

Cost wise, not sure yet but around $2000.

Originally posted by WLD747

...This way you will run at least 18psi boost.

Ah, don't think so - if you're running 9psi in each turbo, then you'll still only run 9psi overall. And if you're running 18 psi in each turbo, the ceramic wheels aren't going to stay attached to the spindles for too long.

But someone might be able to prove me wrong.

Well personally i dont fink the engine internals are strong enough to handle the power. I guessing you'll need to change internals, as well as upgrading injectors, fuel pumps...etc... But i've been told you can run up to 18psi on stock internals.

Though it would be nice to beat a GTR very hard though! Goodluck buddy! Take me on first parallel boy! Hehe you know what i mean Supra! hahahah

Originally posted by iBd14U

But i've been told you can run up to 18psi on stock internals.

Probably can but for how long? Prob last like a couple of moths... I would never run over 12 psi on stock internals after that u are just killing ur engine.

supra , u can get the gtst to stock gtrs power very easy but where do u get the traction to keep up with it ? and how many gtrs do u know that are stock ? u dont need to do much to a gtr to run low 12's . why not just buy a gtr ?

to run 18 psi on 2 turbos u need each one to run 18 psi , 9psi each = 9 psi not 18 .

Originally posted by DAMQIK GTS-T

At the Qld Dyno day last weekend there was a R31 with a rb25dett in it, it had two 180sx turbo's in it (I think)

It  made well over 200 RWKW on a dyno that reads low figures.

It was very well set up and made good low range power as well.

for the price to setup a twn tubro, i expect more than just about 200rwkw which stock tubro can achive

Originally posted by blind_elk

Ah, don't think so - if you're running 9psi in each turbo, then you'll still only run 9psi overall. And if you're running 18 psi in each turbo, the ceramic wheels aren't going to stay attached to the spindles for too long.

But someone might be able to prove me wrong.

Two stock turbos will be able to be provide more boost to one engine because they're only feeding half the engine. Thus lower RPM on the turbo to provide the same boost. Since it's speed and not boost which kills the ceramic wheels it should be possible to get 18psi out of each turbo. Whether it's worth the effort or not is another thing.

Croat, there are plenty of guys here running more than 12psi all day everyday on a stock engine without any problems. I'm one of them :)

Originally posted by WLD747

YES!, go for it as im going to get mine done in a few weeks.  Im adding a another t28 ball bearing turbo for my main turbo and leaving the t28 ceramic turbine one as my second turbo.  This way you will run at least 18psi boost.

Cost wise, not sure yet but around $2000.

I'm not sure why you would do this. Firstly you are not running the turbos sequentially, so if you have mismatched compressor maps, you will end up with big problems and poor turbo repsonse - not good for flow. Secondly, two T28s are probably a bit big for a RB25 stock internals - they are sized to flow for 2.5L and sized to flow for 2.5L worth of exhast gas to spin the exhaust wheel. If you halve exhaust flow to both turbos, say hello to massive lag. And btw, "at least 18psi" is probably way past the efficiency of a stock T28 turbo... and on stock internals? I guess thats a good idea as a few weeks after you'll have to rebuild the bottom end with forgies - and then you can bolt on two T28 highflows and really build a monster.

Why not just do it properly and save up for a high flow or better still an aftermarket jap turbo second hand? Less hassle, better gains... and if it were as easy as throwing on another T28 for $2000 (which it will definately cost more than that) why isn't everybody doing this?

Originally posted by Ronin 09

I'm not sure why you would do this. Firstly you are not running the turbos sequentially, so if you have mismatched compressor maps, you will end up with big problems and poor turbo repsonse - not good for flow.  Secondly, two T28s are probably a bit big for a RB25 stock internals - they are sized to flow for 2.5L and sized to flow for 2.5L worth of exhast gas to spin the exhaust wheel. If you halve exhaust flow to both turbos, say hello to massive lag. And btw, "at least 18psi" is probably way past the efficiency of a stock T28 turbo... and on stock internals? I guess thats a good idea as a few weeks after you'll have to rebuild the bottom end with forgies - and then you can bolt on two T28 highflows and really build a monster.

Why not just do it properly and save up for a high flow or better still an aftermarket jap turbo second hand? Less hassle, better gains... and if it were as easy as throwing on another T28 for $2000 (which it will definately cost more than that) why isn't everybody doing this?

I agree on a stock rb25det it wont last long 2 turbo's meens twice as much cfm ,u gona need a good fuel setup.And by the time u build a manifold ,piping its not going to be cost effective.Also it will spool up later but so will a bigger single turbo.And think about this why do all the big hp cars (supra,gtr,rx7) all run a big single turbo....cause its two hard to get big power out of 2 turbos cause they have to be producing the exact same cfm,And this usally ends up in difficult tunning which is not worth the effort.

guys

if the aim is to build a GTS-t to beat a GTR, why not spend the money on more important things like aftermarket management system, along with a big enough turbo to provide the horsepower required. Match it with a good FMIC, high flow exhaust and air filter, and if the standard internals can handle the power gain you will have reached your goal, but more importantly you will have potential for more power gains with a strong rebuild in the future. Unfortunately this will cost you more than $2000, but then again i would love to see a well tuned twin turbo set up on a GTS for $2000.

Sure 'twin turbo' sounds sweet, but cost and hassle aint worth it, and your goal of beating a GTR can be achieved with a single setup.

Horsepower requires money, especially if you like reliability and drivability.

if you wanna do it.. use two t25's off a ca18.. they should work well and if your after a gain after that just upgrade to the t25g's then to t28's off a s14/s15 they are all the same flange so the two original manifolds you get made up will be fine. youll need fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, bigger injectors, fmic, custom exhaust manifolds (obvouis but had to mention) a computer that will use a map sencor.. cause it will just be easier.. but mostly up to personal preferance. .. the r33 gtst box should be fine.. a good clutch.. you could use different diff gears to keep the turbos on boost if they drop off.. id sujest getting cams and cam gears.. help bring turbos on boost if there is problems???.. what else is there.. anyway just from the stuff iv said that will cost a lil bit more than 2000 bux.

I have done this, home welded manifolds, dump pipes, Used E6k Ecu, goes awesome. Just got it on the road, only running 10psi. So far very good, lots of potential yet, shall let you guys know how it goes...

At the moment, it gets boost at 3500 rpm and then the boost hits hard. I highly recomend this sort of biuld up. Its cheap too!

Im using staged injection with 12 injectors.

DSC00170.jpg

cttbu.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...