Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This may not be a problem at all, its probably just me being over protective of my car.

Currently Im running standard turbo on r34 gtt at 13psi. The turbo sounds fine up until around 10psi then it makes lick a loud flickering sounds, possible could be described as a vibration sound under heavy load. I need to do some more testing myself while driving but i seems to only happen when i put my car under heavy load once its already moving NOT on a fast take off.

I thought it may be a bit of shaft play or something along those lines.

One again I may be being over protective of my car but it just doesnt sounds right to me. Anyone got any ideas of what it may be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260760-wird-turbo-sounds/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Turn the boost down.

12psi and beyond is lethal on a stock ceramic Neo turbo. The vibrations you're experiencing might well be shaft play...

How long have you been running 13psi for?

ah the better part of 3 months I guess, and I dont really drive my car llike a maniac. If its shaft play, its already starting to happen at 10psi so i may as well start looking for a new turbo regardless yeh?

nylon compressor wheel with ceramic exhaust turbine wheel

MM so I spoke to my mechanic, could be anything, worst case senario turbo is Mcrooted. could be a intercooler piping problem which could result in the turbo overworking so we have the same outcome of turbo Mcrooted. Gana look at getting it repaired and hi flowed. Or a resonably priced bolt on.

  • 2 weeks later...

so this is really starting to concern me as i would have thought, if this weird vibration im getting above 10psi was the turbo i would have expected it to die by now... i probably need to get a recording of it, but its difficult as it only happens when the car is moving, if i park the car and rev the engine it doesnt happen :S

Its like a vibration sound could be closely related to the sound of a helicopters blades starting to pick up speed.

paul is waaaaay more learned than me :) so i'd be inclined to list to him, but yeah, the reason why i asked about the BC because i've just recently found out they can make a ticking noise when coming onto or around boost.

we just put some foam behind the solenoid to stop the ticking. It "could" be what's happening to you, but you are running a decent amount of boost for a stock turbo

paul is waaaaay more learned than me :P so i'd be inclined to list to him, but yeah, the reason why i asked about the BC because i've just recently found out they can make a ticking noise when coming onto or around boost.

we just put some foam behind the solenoid to stop the ticking. It "could" be what's happening to you, but you are running a decent amount of boost for a stock turbo

So ive found out it could be compressor surge, non the less, get new highflow turbo, plenum, airflow meter and injectors done this week, so we will see waht happens.

I highly doubt its detonation as this car is so well looked after, gets a FULL services every 5,000 km's. The engine has only done jsut over 100,000 or so Km's and has had the timing belt and everything done. Never gets touched by anyone bar my mechanic who i trust with my car more than I trust myself. The car is never thrashed, infact its very unlikely the cars see the likes of that 13psi more than 4 times since it was last tuned.

But the car will be tested and dynod this week and ill post up dyno charts and any problems we encounter in the process.

So ive found out it could be compressor surge, non the less, get new highflow turbo, plenum, airflow meter and injectors done this week, so we will see waht happens.

I highly doubt its detonation as this car is so well looked after, gets a FULL services every 5,000 km's. The engine has only done jsut over 100,000 or so Km's and has had the timing belt and everything done. Never gets touched by anyone bar my mechanic who i trust with my car more than I trust myself. The car is never thrashed, infact its very unlikely the cars see the likes of that 13psi more than 4 times since it was last tuned.

But the car will be tested and dynod this week and ill post up dyno charts and any problems we encounter in the process.

Detonation is down to the tune not the general upkeep of the engine .. even brand new engines can have det.. its all in the tune i.e ignition timing.. are you running an aftermarket ecu or just the standard one? did you check the base timing when the timing belt was done? these could be some possibilities , not having a go at you or your tuner just trying to help..

Goodluck with it

Detonation is down to the tune not the general upkeep of the engine .. even brand new engines can have det.. its all in the tune i.e ignition timing.. are you running an aftermarket ecu or just the standard one? did you check the base timing when the timing belt was done? these could be some possibilities , not having a go at you or your tuner just trying to help..

Goodluck with it

ah ye hi understand that but I trust the tuner I used as he learnt from matt spry. Yeh I have a nistune vg30 chip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...