Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Holy ghost Batman! You're still around! How the hell are you Josh?

Not around that much - From time to time I go German dinners that the guys in this thread do.

Don't own skylines, not a paying member not really any point being on here ;)

Busy with work though, back working Bulimba (Was in New Farm for 2 or so years). Still playing with (a) car. Need a tow rig though, stupidest friggin car to drive on the street.

Used to be high-compression, ridiculous timing and av-gas/race fuel only. Here I was thinking de-tuning; running lower compression and 98ron would make it "easier". I laugh at my own stupidity

A stick with a sign on it would be more useful than our receptionist. Less temperamental too. domokun.gif

We could use a couple of those sticks with signs in our service department. Group buy on sticks with signs?

Not around that much - From time to time I go German dinners that the guys in this thread do.

Don't own skylines, not a paying member not really any point being on here ;)

Busy with work though, back working Bulimba (Was in New Farm for 2 or so years). Still playing with (a) car. Need a tow rig though, stupidest friggin car to drive on the street.

Used to be high-compression, ridiculous timing and av-gas/race fuel only. Here I was thinking de-tuning; running lower compression and 98ron would make it "easier". I laugh at my own stupidity

German dinners, bring it on! I have been missing out it seems.

Next time you are anywhere near Emporium give me a bell and come around for a drink or 20 at Ristorante Tartufo (my second home)

Sign my stick?

Winning

Keen for stick signage

Winning

Can I get your sister to sign my stick?

Epic Winning

In for Col's Sister signage.

Epic Winning

Yes, With a sharpie.

Winning

Needs moar crossing of swords?

Um.... not so winning... :blink:

Still playing with (a) car. Need a tow rig though, stupidest friggin car to drive on the street.

Used to be high-compression, ridiculous timing and av-gas/race fuel only. Here I was thinking de-tuning; running lower compression and 98ron would make it "easier". I laugh at my own stupidity

sound good...what the hell is it?

dammmmm it

stupid bike shop gave me the wrong oil filter...

how do you get a honda filter when you ask for a Yamaha one... f**k...

now i cant go anywhere in the morning, cant put the old one back on either as its got a pin hole in it... :rant:

have to wait til monday night to fix it up now... cant even put oil in it now...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...