Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-46584-1239928003_thumb.jpg

;):):)

Looks AWESOME!

You wheel offset is huge!

How did you make the exhaust muffler? Metal pipping with different diametres sliding into each other bought from the LHS?

Z-Tune looks nice. Is your intercooler made from cardboard pieces?

How did you get the Carbon Fibre bonnet look? Sticker?

Again looks great!

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

LOL!

Yeah you filmed it on the side, but sill looks good.

Gee you got good control in a small area.

Nice, thanks for that.

Yes the RC Car is very well built, can't complain about Tamiya, awesome quality.

It's fast for sure! Gota get use to the speed and controlling the throttle as well.

I took my S15 out again today out on the street, I'm getting use to it but still need practice.

Today I got my +6mm Offset Volk TE37 wheels in black and looks awesome as it fills the guards nicely.

I will get some pics tomorrow in the sunlight.

hahaha, my fiancée did the filming so its not my fault :)

ill take some pictures of my chassis without the body. i have a few minor mods to help me drive

really sharp like i was. (my car only rides 4mm of the ground........probably lower now, i haven't looked.

yeah im happy with mine its is easy to control and ive tried other motors and its fine. (stock 540 motor

at the moment but)

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) yours looks exactly like the s15 on the HPI mags back a few issues. my battery lasts the same as yours.

Edited by central coast person

i saw some youtube videos now i want one =]

any idea where i get a r/c drift car from..im looking for a r33 =] i want to make a replica of my car =]

whats the average price range for one of these, and do they come assembled or do you have to build it?

Hey Beau

you can get some cheap ones off ebay

the R33 kit is very very rare.

you will need the 400 R body i think as it resembles a stock r33 the most. the others are the calsonic style ones.

go for tamiya. will set you back about 150-250

again. R33 shells are very very rare.

im trying to source an R32 GTR shell and it seems i can only get em from japan at about $90

hmmmm i just found this on ebay =]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2009-1-10-RC-Radio-...%3A1|240%3A1318

looks alright, dont want anything to flashy or pricey as i seen some kits $300+

and id probably prefer electric to fuel..unless anyone suggest otherwise.

hahaha, my fiancée did the filming so its not my fault :)

ill take some pictures of my chassis without the body. i have a few minor mods to help me drive

really sharp like i was. (my car only rides 4mm of the ground........probably lower now, i haven't looked.

yeah im happy with mine its is easy to control and ive tried other motors and its fine. (stock 540 motor

at the moment but)

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) yours looks exactly like the s15 on the HPI mags back a few issues. my battery lasts the same as yours.

Yeah the S15 is based on the RAUL WELT S15 Silvia in Japan.

UPDATE!

I just got a Datsun Fairlady 240Z body shell yesterday, sprayed in White with Work Meister Wheels +6mm Offset.

Also bought a FD RX7 body shell made by HPI and I realised it only has a GT Wing in which I hate and I want the standard wing.

Pics of 240Z ASAP!

where did you get the meisters?

i just bought a tamiya XBG petrol car

off a mate for 100 bux

im gona buy a 3.3 cc engine and put it in because the existing engine is old and shitty

i also found CE28N's

theres an RC thread in the wasteland btw

Yeah I saw that thread Sam, thanks.

There is a Hobby shop on Station Street in Box Hill and they do a lot of HPI goods.

That is where I got the Work Meisters from, in chrome (Which is probably the only wheels I like in chrome).

They are even trying to get the Bling Kits with the Exhaust Muffler and Intercooler.

R33's are indeed rare. Getting your hands on the road going version is virtually impossible but I was lucky enough to score a couple of brand new R33 GTR N1 kits (now sold).

The wide body race spec R33's aren't my thing.

dfjb04.jpg

You can spot the Sard Supra too. Hard to get stuff.

For R32's, HPI make them for around 50 bucks. They lack the detail of Tamiya but will be fine if your looking at using it as basher.

nice looking cars guys. I have a 1/8th scale tamiya TGX nitro car with Kure Nismo Super GT GTR body. It was a great car in the day. nice engine, great build quality and I bought the 2 speed transmission for it and with that it gets to about 80km/h in top gear!! the only downside is at that speed you get out of range pretty quick and can have some pretty nasty stacks too.

I might drag it out of the garage and get it going again. the killer with the tamiya gear is it's all top quality, but the hop ups cost a bomb. from memory the 2 speed gear box was over $150 at the time, and then you have 2 clutch etc, carbon brakes a lot of stuff that can wear out. I also ran it with a front 1 way LSD and rear 2 way and carbon fibre tailshaft. lol, just like a real GTR. :P

just wondering where you guys get the fat ass wheels from... the ones i have make my R/C look like its rolling on Hyundai Rims..

HPI make aftermarket wheels with different Offset sizes. +3mm, +6mm and +9mm.

You probably want to go +6mm to fill your guards.

nice looking cars guys. I have a 1/8th scale tamiya TGX nitro car with Kure Nismo Super GT GTR body. It was a great car in the day. nice engine, great build quality and I bought the 2 speed transmission for it and with that it gets to about 80km/h in top gear!! the only downside is at that speed you get out of range pretty quick and can have some pretty nasty stacks too.

I might drag it out of the garage and get it going again. the killer with the tamiya gear is it's all top quality, but the hop ups cost a bomb. from memory the 2 speed gear box was over $150 at the time, and then you have 2 clutch etc, carbon brakes a lot of stuff that can wear out. I also ran it with a front 1 way LSD and rear 2 way. lol, just like a real GTR. ;)

LOL!

Yeah sounds just like a real car, but for hole lot less for the price.

80km/h, you could probably put that up against a real car and give it a good run :P

I saw that in Top Gear, they race a real car (I can't remember what car it was) against the RC version of the same car.

HPI make aftermarket wheels with different Offset sizes. +3mm, +6mm and +9mm.

You probably want to go +6mm to fill your guards.

LOL!

Yeah sounds just like a real car, but for hole lot less for the price.

80km/h, you could probably put that up against a real car and give it a good run :P

I saw that in Top Gear, they race a real car (I can't remember what car it was) against the RC version of the same car.

I think i saw this top gear episode... wasnt it Clarkson V the Stig. and the Stig just cracked it and ran the R/C over and crushed it, therefore winning the race?

I think i saw this top gear episode... wasnt it Clarkson V the Stig. and the Stig just cracked it and ran the R/C over and crushed it, therefore winning the race?

That's not very nice.. my old TT01 got run over in the carpark outside my mates workshop.. stupid cow came fanging round the corner and front wheel then back wheel over my r/c :P

I'll put a battery on charge this arvo and try get some footage before it gets dark!

That's not very nice.. my old TT01 got run over in the carpark outside my mates workshop.. stupid cow came fanging round the corner and front wheel then back wheel over my r/c :P

I'll put a battery on charge this arvo and try get some footage before it gets dark!

lol speaking of batteries i need to buy new ones as mine only last about 10mins this days if that and they also have burnt through the black casing and have been held together with PVC tape... Definately sounds like im due for new ones

I think i saw this top gear episode... wasnt it Clarkson V the Stig. and the Stig just cracked it and ran the R/C over and crushed it, therefore winning the race?

Yeah that's the one.

Bubba that must suck big time.

These RC Cars are not cheap either.

Hope she paid for the replacement!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...