Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am totally new to Nissan and to track day fun. So please forgive my ignorance and also if I havent posted in the right section.

Basically I have had a taste of driving around a track and I am now addicted. I want to buy something cheap around $7,000 that would be fun at the track.

I considered a S13 but from what I now understand this is more suited to drifting rather than lapsprints... so I am now thinking of going for an RB20 R32.

What do you guys recommend?

First choice was an S13 with a worked CA 1.8... or maybe an SR20.

Now I am really thinking of going down the RB20 path and get an R32 - I figure that as I get more into it and want to spend more I can do more with an R32 rather than an S13 and maybe put in an SR20 in it later or - potentially an RB26 one day down in the future?? - if possible - as I said new to these cars.

I am just after a car for lapsprinting and motorkhanas..... not into drifting.

Is there any sites that have track day times of cars around Australia? just to get an idea?

What do you guys think overall?

Thanks in advance...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262138-newbie-track-car-opinions/
Share on other sites

honestly think that a go-kart is more suited to your budget. but you may find your way into a non-complianced 32 leaving you enough cash for some very basic mods. but a brake upgrade to atleast 4 pot front & 2 pot rear, sway bars and tyres are necessary.

Hi all,

I am totally new to Nissan and to track day fun. So please forgive my ignorance and also if I havent posted in the right section.

Basically I have had a taste of driving around a track and I am now addicted. I want to buy something cheap around $7,000 that would be fun at the track.

I considered a S13 but from what I now understand this is more suited to drifting rather than lapsprints... so I am now thinking of going for an RB20 R32.

What do you guys recommend?

First choice was an S13 with a worked CA 1.8... or maybe an SR20.

Now I am really thinking of going down the RB20 path and get an R32 - I figure that as I get more into it and want to spend more I can do more with an R32 rather than an S13 and maybe put in an SR20 in it later or - potentially an RB26 one day down in the future?? - if possible - as I said new to these cars.

I am just after a car for lapsprinting and motorkhanas..... not into drifting.

Is there any sites that have track day times of cars around Australia? just to get an idea?

What do you guys think overall?

Thanks in advance...

R32 For Sale on NS.com

This might be worth looking at.

Note that buying the car is only the beginning, the money just disappears after that.

Also dont get put off buying a S13 or 180SX because they are good at drifting, they are also relatively good for track work. Cheap, heaps of aftermarket support and very reliable!

Good luck.

honestly think that a go-kart is more suited to your budget. but you may find your way into a non-complianced 32 leaving you enough cash for some very basic mods. but a brake upgrade to atleast 4 pot front & 2 pot rear, sway bars and tyres are necessary.

a 150rwkws GTSt is perfectly fine with std brakes, std radiator. Just needs a fmic and an exhaust, i didnt even run an oil cooler for the first 3 years of track days. Throw some decent suspension under it and you have a cheap as hell reliable track car. I say cheap as you get 10 or so days out of pads, 6+ days out of tyres etc.

If you happen to strip some weight out of it then throw in a decent seat and harness and you are done.

I think with a budget of 10k you could easily get a neat GTSt going to the track.

Thanks guys.... some great info there. That GTST looks very tempting... there are a few examples for around $8k with modified suspension, intercooler etc.

What do you think is a fair price for a heavily modified CA S13? Found one with 320hp for around $6500 but its track ready.... I think I can get it lower.

I realise this is now going to be constantly costing me $$$ but I want to start off slow.

Edited by R32FJP

S13 deviat here on the forums, has a well sorted S13 for supersprints. As Jay said, dont dismiss them just yet :down:

With that sort of budget, there are a few S13's around!

But with what Troy has said makes good points. Motorsport isnt cheap, if you get a car for a bit more like a 32 gtst, you can have plenty of fun with minimal mods!!

I've decided to get away from the R33 for track days as it was just going to cost too much to run, now have an MX5 clubman which has already worked out cheaper for me!!

But either way, you'll have fun, and its addictive!!!!

and has you have seen yourself Chris you don't need a big car with big power, a small and nimble car is just as quick with half the power. But being small and light means that tyres, brakes, fuel which are 3 big costs of trackdays are much lower too.

Exactly Ben!

I had the best fun in the mazda with 130hp last sprint day than I had in the skyline with 400 or so hp - also came first in class which would never happen in the other class I was in LOL

And the costs, yes exactly, much cheaper!!

I had the opertunity to drive a naturally aspirated S13 silvia around wakefield on saturday. With minimal mods and a gutted car it was a heap of fun to drive and managed some decent lap times.

It was painfully slow in a straight line after getting out of a 400Kw GTR but still entertaining around the top of the circuit and back down the hill for about 5 laps. Then I was well and truely over it.

Id seriosuly suggest you follow Troy's advise and buy an R32 GTS-t though. The S13 would quickly get boring once you become a better driver and the R32 lends its self well to an Rb26 conversion. I dont really beleive in the whole under powered light weight car thing. They are not nessisarily faster around corners and they are painfully slow on the straight.

Edited by Risking
I had the opertunity to drive a naturally aspirated S13 silvia around wakefield on saturday. With minimal mods and a gutted car it was a heap of fun to drive and managed some decent lap times.

It was painfully slow in a straight line after getting out of a 400Kw GTR but still entertaining around the top of the circuit and back down the hill for about 5 laps. Then I was well and truely over it.

Id seriosuly suggest you follow Troy's advise and buy an R32 GTS-t though. The S13 would quickly get boring once you become a better driver and the R32 lends its self well to an Rb26 conversion. I dont really beleive in the whole under powered light weight car thing. They are not nessisarily faster around corners and they are painfully slow on the straight.

Yep I agree with other comments on a light car such as an MX5. That is a great car. I am up in Darwin though and Hidden Valley Circuit has a 1.1km straight... so thats where I need a more powerful car. If I can find a cheap R32 I think I will be heading that way for sure... the more and more I am researching its all pointing that way.

If the budget doesnt stretch thought I might have to settle with an S13. Just hard to make up my mind..... :)

I have a 135i which was loads of fun on the track but its not a car that I want to track often... just took it out to see how it goes.... now that I am addicted I want a trackie.... and would love the motorkhanas too.

I had the opertunity to drive a naturally aspirated S13 silvia around wakefield on saturday. With minimal mods and a gutted car it was a heap of fun to drive and managed some decent lap times.

It was painfully slow in a straight line after getting out of a 400Kw GTR but still entertaining around the top of the circuit and back down the hill for about 5 laps. Then I was well and truely over it.

Id seriosuly suggest you follow Troy's advise and buy an R32 GTS-t though. The S13 would quickly get boring once you become a better driver and the R32 lends its self well to an Rb26 conversion. I dont really beleive in the whole under powered light weight car thing. They are not nessisarily faster around corners and they are painfully slow on the straight.

Was that Dave's (Dumhed's old) car? If so what times were you doing in that?

I dont think he would get over a SR20DET S13 so quickly!

Just look around and be patient, something (either S13 or R32 or something else) will eventually come up that will determine which way you go.

I think both are good choices for the track.

The S13 wll need upgraded brakes straight away, but S14/15/32/33 brakes will be plenty and the car is lightweight with lots of aftermarket support. Personally I wouldn't touch a CA, but that's me. I just don't trust their reliability.

The 32 is also a good choice as it has bigger brakes already, but weighs a bit more. RB20 is a strong engine too and will take an absolute beating but feels quite gutless when stock.

S13 doesn't have the front end problems that the R32's multilink has when running track oriented geometry. I've had both an R32 GTR and a S13 Sil80.

SR20 will make just as much power as an RB20 with less weight. CA18's are OK, but have far less torque and subsequently a narrower, peakier power band compared to the SR20. And I've had both engine too - my built CA18 with Argo rods, Venolia pistons, Tomei cams, head work, custom steam pipe manifold, HKS GT-RS turbo, Autronic ECU & CDI which on 1 bar made 20kw less than a stock SR20 on the same boost with an off the shelf manifold, HKS GT-SS and 550cc injectors, with PFC. and its not just the peak power that's lower, the CA came on more suddenly, peaked and dropped off. the SR has a peak of 270bhp at the wheels but has over 260bhp from 5000-7500rpm! basically there will never be a time on the track where you have less than 260bhp available at the wheels :/ the CA only had that power for an instant.

S13 is lighter which means better braking & increased corner speed, while being easier on tyres and brake pads.

I think the S13 is the better option but an R32 is OK too, just a bit heavier and wil chew out upper arm bushes. dead sexy engine note though! you'll have a bunch of fun in either car.

Agreed with Harry there....... an S13 is a very good option. Finding a decent one is the hardest bit.

I cannot say I'm at all dissappointed with my 32 GTS-t though, 3rd fastest (behind a 996 Cup car and Sports Sedan) at saturday's Top Gear meet @ Lakeside says there's plenty of pace to be had with one still :/ Keep in mind that mine isn't a circuit car, it's a tarmac rally car with all the associated compromises that go with that.

S13 doesn't have the front end problems that the R32's multilink has when running track oriented geometry. I've had both an R32 GTR and a S13 Sil80.

SR20 will make just as much power as an RB20 with less weight. CA18's are OK, but have far less torque and subsequently a narrower, peakier power band compared to the SR20. And I've had both engine too - my built CA18 with Argo rods, Venolia pistons, Tomei cams, head work, custom steam pipe manifold, HKS GT-RS turbo, Autronic ECU & CDI which on 1 bar made 20kw less than a stock SR20 on the same boost with an off the shelf manifold, HKS GT-SS and 550cc injectors, with PFC. and its not just the peak power that's lower, the CA came on more suddenly, peaked and dropped off. the SR has a peak of 270bhp at the wheels but has over 260bhp from 5000-7500rpm! basically there will never be a time on the track where you have less than 260bhp available at the wheels :P the CA only had that power for an instant.

S13 is lighter which means better braking & increased corner speed, while being easier on tyres and brake pads.

I think the S13 is the better option but an R32 is OK too, just a bit heavier and wil chew out upper arm bushes. dead sexy engine note though! you'll have a bunch of fun in either car.

Just the info I wanted!!!!!! Thanks heaps very informative! :woot:

You have now helped me rule out the CA totally.....

I think an SR S13 will be the best or a R32 depending on the money.

Question though.... does it really matter if it is a red top or black top SR20.... ?

Agreed with Harry there....... an S13 is a very good option. Finding a decent one is the hardest bit.

I cannot say I'm at all dissappointed with my 32 GTS-t though, 3rd fastest (behind a 996 Cup car and Sports Sedan) at saturday's Top Gear meet @ Lakeside says there's plenty of pace to be had with one still :P Keep in mind that mine isn't a circuit car, it's a tarmac rally car with all the associated compromises that go with that.

very impressive... right behing a 996 cup car.... :woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...