Jump to content
SAU Community

Half Size (width) Alloy Radiators

clip14

By clip14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

clip14 Rising Star

clip14

Posted
Posted

has anyone here had any experience using a half size (width) alloy radiator with their skyline? I'm considering a different intercooler/radiator setup and the half width radiator frees up more room in the engine bay.

I have seen these being used on turbocharged hondas running lots of power, mitsi evo's and other fwd cars to fit large turbos.

they are thicker than factory radiators and aluminium dual/triple cores? the cooling ability should be sufficient????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263774-half-size-width-alloy-radiators/
Share on other sites
salival Enthusiast

salival

Posted
Posted
has anyone here had any experience using a half size (width) alloy radiator with their skyline? I'm considering a different intercooler/radiator setup and the half width radiator frees up more room in the engine bay.

I have seen these being used on turbocharged hondas running lots of power, mitsi evo's and other fwd cars to fit large turbos.

they are thicker than factory radiators and aluminium dual/triple cores? the cooling ability should be sufficient????

Hi, I actually make alunimium radiators for a job, mainly for performance cars..

I would *not* recommend this, stick to a front mount setup or if you want to go something different, go water to air..

clip14 Rising Star

clip14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nope, lots of highly modified hondas run half size radiators. they come factory with a half width radiator, so upgrade to an alloy thicker version. allows fitment of a large turbo.

ive seen the setup on evo's as well.

will have a search tonight for some examples.

surely if I use a core twice a thick as a standard radiator and made from a more heat conductive material, i can have the same cooling efficiency as a full width thin factory radiator?

rodger1 Apprentice

rodger1

Posted
Posted
nope, lots of highly modified hondas run half size radiators. they come factory with a half width radiator, so upgrade to an alloy thicker version. allows fitment of a large turbo.

ive seen the setup on evo's as well.

will have a search tonight for some examples.

surely if I use a core twice a thick as a standard radiator and made from a more heat conductive material, i can have the same cooling efficiency as a full width thin factory radiator?

I've seen them on a skyline but the only reason it was running one was it ran on alcohol which runs a lot cooler. they wouldn't work on a large engine car because they just don't have the cooling capacity for hot days in traffic. if you we're only going to use the car as a track car with sustained high speeds and good airflow over the core then maybe, they are not suited for everyday skylines

clip14 Rising Star

clip14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1722429

sohcgt30r1.JPG

many many more here : http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t...747&page=26

lots running 300fwkw+ daily drivers.

id imagine the same heat is produced from the 6cyl vs the 4cyl, since heat is generated by fuel combusting. so same heat output if youre making say 300hp whether it be from a 6cyl 2.5 or 4cl 1.8.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

What exactly do you need the room for?

You say it will free up space, sure. But it will only free up a bit on one side.

Then you will fill the other side up with a thicker radiator + thermo fan.

Civics come with a half size standard, so do the CTR's.

Integras have full size ones, and people do change to thicker half sized ones in them too and dont have issues. (Turbo setup wise)

I dont see why it wouldnt work, but it seems pointless. You'd probly want to make up some sort of shrouding to direct the air towards it too.

clip14 Rising Star

clip14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im just suggesting a different idea and seeing what peoples opinions are.

thats cool if you think its 'pedantic'

shorter intercooler piping and better flow sounds like advantages which are worth the effort if a half width alloy radiator will be enough for engine cooling.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Well it is really.

If it was so important dont you think someone else would have tried it? Like a Japanese tuner?

How exactly would the piping be shorter anyway? It still has to travel to the same place. All your doing is having a smaller core to fill. So you would actually have more piping really. To cover the distance that the core didnt take up?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
airflow through the radiator and intercooler.

radiator behind intercooler gets warm air, and less because of the ic.

ic gets less flow because of the radiator blocking air behind it etc

Mate my I/C sits directly infront of my cooler, its basically the same size too...

And my temps on the street are 69-72 degree's. There is no problem with airflow or cooling of anything. Your worrying about nothing.

I highly doubt you'll get a cooler that will work, in such a small space. Chase power, you need a nice core and it wont fit there

Drift Motorsport Community Regular

Drift Motorsport

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a lot of dicking around + cash spent, for a f**k all gain.

Stock or alloy aftermarket radiator + FMIC = a reliable package that looks as good as it performs.

If you want better cooling - try ducting the radiator and intercooler with thick plastic sheets.

Alternatively, you can for a V-Mount or Predator style setup as pictured:

s15kitradint.jpg

PR001C.jpg

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

agreed.

considering its only got a thermo, and a small one at that... its going to be horrid with some of the worst heatsoak in traffic anyone could imagine.

The car would have to be a track car, with lots of speed, for that to work remotely well IMO.

My setup is very similar, except my rad/IC is much larger, there is a slightly bigger gap... and im still running the factory clutch fan.

All that comes in ~70 degrees driving, upto 74-75 in traffic at best on a 25 degree day :)

rodger1 Apprentice

rodger1

Posted
Posted

If it worked well having the smaller intercooler don't you think Nissan would be doing it? that's right they aren't because it isn't efficient. as we all know about car manufactures if they can build something cheaper that works the same they will

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • niZmO_Man
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...