Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It has come to my attention that i may have the ability to purchase a new car at the end of the year, just wondering what everyones opinions are on the two and which they would go for and why, ive narrowed it down to these two as there is nothing else in the price range that really interests me, and have absolutely no clue which i would prefer i love both.

Ne help?

Cheers

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26411-r34-gtt-vs-s15/
Share on other sites

I will closer to the time if it is definately gonna happen. just trying to formulate some opinions at the moment. Do car yards let P platers take cars for test drives?

S15200sxbroda: I searched but there is nothing really relative to this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26411-r34-gtt-vs-s15/#findComment-559051
Share on other sites

haha, see i feel the same way, ive driven an s15 and they feel awesome, a bit lighter then my current car, but i havent driven a 34 yet, im leaning slightly towards the 34 but still not totally sure and dont want to regret what i buy.

MR R32: I'm unsure whether u were having a chop at me, but im not ashamed to say my grandparents will be hepling me out with this purchase if it happens. I worked really hard for the car i have now, and paid for most of the car stock form and pretty much all the mods. Im proud of what i have and dont take it for granted. Please dont judge me if u havent even met me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26411-r34-gtt-vs-s15/#findComment-559403
Share on other sites

suits me more?? can u elaborate on that.

Isurance is about the same for both cars for me, so thats not a huge issue. R34's r still fairly rare aswell, i just dont know how long its gonna stay that way.

cheers for the comments, keep em coming!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26411-r34-gtt-vs-s15/#findComment-559518
Share on other sites

Originally posted by NA_R33

suits me more?? can u elaborate on that.

Ok...

Your on your P-plates right? The S15, in my opinion, would suit a P-plater more because they`ve got less power.... well.... until you modify it.... a-heh... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26411-r34-gtt-vs-s15/#findComment-559567
Share on other sites

difficult decison huh, im goin' thru that phase at the moment as well, but im kinda leaning towards the s15 tho, everything works out easier for me, e.g insurance, 2L(petrol, maintenance), etc.

sum how the r34 without the flared guards turns me off a bit from it, but somewhat it is a mad car in its own..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26411-r34-gtt-vs-s15/#findComment-559810
Share on other sites

If the s15 is anything like the 13 (chassis wise) it will handle like a go kart while the 'line is less forgiving. This means thats its a safer car if u lose the back end but it will make u wanna do more stupid things in it aswell. Cmon we all do stupid things at one time or another.

S15= short sprints, high revving, all up a really "go hard" car. Easy to up the p[ower substantailly with just an exhaust.

r34= long country drives with power to get up and go on the freeway and in the city. Plus ure chances of fitting someone in the back are a bit higher but probably still not practical. U should buy a HSV:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26411-r34-gtt-vs-s15/#findComment-560150
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...