Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey mate

really like that bonnet, im not a fan of bomex kits but its shaping up alright by the looks of it

just wondering how much the series 2 conversion cost and where u got the parts from? Thinking about doing one sometime soon

PM me if you want

Cheers

hey mate

really like that bonnet, im not a fan of bomex kits but its shaping up alright by the looks of it

just wondering how much the series 2 conversion cost and where u got the parts from? Thinking about doing one sometime soon

PM me if you want

Cheers

Bonnet $770 From Blits Bodykits, however i do have a metal S2 one i paid i think $220 for from PanelHouse in brisbane (I needed the original for them to mould off) lights came from Japan Autos and were $389 each. Front Rio was $180, Grill was about $80. Front bar is completley different so u will need to allow $500 or so for one of those as well.

nothing good ever comes out of mister kiet's comments

lol.. you have noticed that too? :yes:..

Anyway

UPDATE: Bodyshop tried to "F*CK" me with the price, wanting an extra 2G to paint the front end only (no full respray). So as I have painted quite a few cars previously im just going to do it myself then pay for a full respray at a later stage, or perhaps just hire a booth and do it myself once again. It really pisses me off that they can quote, then put it in the too hard basket after being advised of what was being modified/replaced once sighting the car. I know there is a bit more work involved in preping fiberglass but come on $3500 for Bonnet, Front Bar, Rear Bar, Sideskirts and Rear Bar is a joke.

everyone is entitled their own opinions, i just speak my mind. sorry if i offend anyone. But i do have respect for you and how much you love your car, so dont think im just on here starting shit. =]

everyone is entitled their own opinions, i just speak my mind. sorry if i offend anyone. But i do have respect for you and how much you love your car, so dont think im just on here starting shit. =]

The only person you're belittling is yourself. Quit while you're behind.

Gaurds are now for sale. PM me if intrested. My insurance company would not insure the car with fiberglass gaurds however the bonnet was fine. The vent in the bonnet had to go there so as it didnt leak water all over the rocker covers and go into where the coils live :banana:..

Also i will be painting the car this weekend. Am not going to be doing a full respray right at the moment however will be doing the front bar, bonnet, original gaurds, blowing through the front doors, rear bar and sideskirts. :banana:..

Good job mate!! looks awsome!!

for me, the vent is a bit far forward on the bonnet, but still looks great..

I love those vented guards too!!

I hope your really happy when its finally finished..

thanks :banana:.. and ill be glad to just be able to drive the damn thing again after 8 or 9 weeks.

I love how this is turning out, one of the best R33 GTST's i've seen, i'm loving it.

The bodykit looks really quality - you have put in alot of work and it shows.

Yeh, unfortunatley the kit was a cheap crap chinese one that was so out of shape it wasnt funny, ovbiously been fixed now but if u see anything coated in blue, its from china and cost someone approx $35 per piece landed, so do not buy it unless you have inspected it first. I'm a bit annoyed I had to take the fiberglass gaurds off though especially as there ADR Approved, but the cars insured for $20G.. and its not worth the risk losing that much cash is something were to happen to it.

I'm trying to work up the motivation to go into the garage right now and start blocking back all the parts. :banana:...

I HATE SANDING WITH A PASSION!!! Blocked back first coat of primer today on the Bonnet, Sideskirts, Rear Bar and Bonnet today... Repaired metal gaurds and put them in primer and guide coated them and then gave them 2 more coats :D.. Tommorow i'll hopefully have everything painted. Just have to give everything a couple more coats of primer, rub it back and de nib it :P then time to lay basecoat and clear!.

  • 2 weeks later...
Bonnet $770 From Blits Bodykits, however i do have a metal S2 one i paid i think $220 for from PanelHouse in brisbane (I needed the original for them to mould off) lights came from Japan Autos and were $389 each. Front Rio was $180, Grill was about $80. Front bar is completley different so u will need to allow $500 or so for one of those as well.

I'm assuming the lights were second hand for that price?

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...