Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey mate

really like that bonnet, im not a fan of bomex kits but its shaping up alright by the looks of it

just wondering how much the series 2 conversion cost and where u got the parts from? Thinking about doing one sometime soon

PM me if you want

Cheers

hey mate

really like that bonnet, im not a fan of bomex kits but its shaping up alright by the looks of it

just wondering how much the series 2 conversion cost and where u got the parts from? Thinking about doing one sometime soon

PM me if you want

Cheers

Bonnet $770 From Blits Bodykits, however i do have a metal S2 one i paid i think $220 for from PanelHouse in brisbane (I needed the original for them to mould off) lights came from Japan Autos and were $389 each. Front Rio was $180, Grill was about $80. Front bar is completley different so u will need to allow $500 or so for one of those as well.

nothing good ever comes out of mister kiet's comments

lol.. you have noticed that too? :yes:..

Anyway

UPDATE: Bodyshop tried to "F*CK" me with the price, wanting an extra 2G to paint the front end only (no full respray). So as I have painted quite a few cars previously im just going to do it myself then pay for a full respray at a later stage, or perhaps just hire a booth and do it myself once again. It really pisses me off that they can quote, then put it in the too hard basket after being advised of what was being modified/replaced once sighting the car. I know there is a bit more work involved in preping fiberglass but come on $3500 for Bonnet, Front Bar, Rear Bar, Sideskirts and Rear Bar is a joke.

everyone is entitled their own opinions, i just speak my mind. sorry if i offend anyone. But i do have respect for you and how much you love your car, so dont think im just on here starting shit. =]

everyone is entitled their own opinions, i just speak my mind. sorry if i offend anyone. But i do have respect for you and how much you love your car, so dont think im just on here starting shit. =]

The only person you're belittling is yourself. Quit while you're behind.

Gaurds are now for sale. PM me if intrested. My insurance company would not insure the car with fiberglass gaurds however the bonnet was fine. The vent in the bonnet had to go there so as it didnt leak water all over the rocker covers and go into where the coils live :banana:..

Also i will be painting the car this weekend. Am not going to be doing a full respray right at the moment however will be doing the front bar, bonnet, original gaurds, blowing through the front doors, rear bar and sideskirts. :banana:..

Good job mate!! looks awsome!!

for me, the vent is a bit far forward on the bonnet, but still looks great..

I love those vented guards too!!

I hope your really happy when its finally finished..

thanks :banana:.. and ill be glad to just be able to drive the damn thing again after 8 or 9 weeks.

I love how this is turning out, one of the best R33 GTST's i've seen, i'm loving it.

The bodykit looks really quality - you have put in alot of work and it shows.

Yeh, unfortunatley the kit was a cheap crap chinese one that was so out of shape it wasnt funny, ovbiously been fixed now but if u see anything coated in blue, its from china and cost someone approx $35 per piece landed, so do not buy it unless you have inspected it first. I'm a bit annoyed I had to take the fiberglass gaurds off though especially as there ADR Approved, but the cars insured for $20G.. and its not worth the risk losing that much cash is something were to happen to it.

I'm trying to work up the motivation to go into the garage right now and start blocking back all the parts. :banana:...

I HATE SANDING WITH A PASSION!!! Blocked back first coat of primer today on the Bonnet, Sideskirts, Rear Bar and Bonnet today... Repaired metal gaurds and put them in primer and guide coated them and then gave them 2 more coats :D.. Tommorow i'll hopefully have everything painted. Just have to give everything a couple more coats of primer, rub it back and de nib it :P then time to lay basecoat and clear!.

  • 2 weeks later...
Bonnet $770 From Blits Bodykits, however i do have a metal S2 one i paid i think $220 for from PanelHouse in brisbane (I needed the original for them to mould off) lights came from Japan Autos and were $389 each. Front Rio was $180, Grill was about $80. Front bar is completley different so u will need to allow $500 or so for one of those as well.

I'm assuming the lights were second hand for that price?

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...