Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Standard or A/M???

if it's standard, i'd be buying another secondhand one... or an A/M one..

But if u want to fix it, u probably could... but it looks like a bit of work and if it goes through to the face, it'll need to be machined when finished... so it would be cheaper to get another just from the machining cost...

also where it is you wouldn't be able to bolt it down properly and it could warp...

Hope it helps...

Theres no crack on the face of the flange or the inside of the turbine housing. Just the crack around the outside

Got it from Greeenline, don't like my chances of taking it back because its probably my fault.

I'm am not answering the question you told me not to answer.

a turbo should not crack like that just from doing it up, no matter how tight you do it.

if you were going to get it welded up it will probably have to be done by someone in the know, as i'm pretty sure the turbine housing will have to be ground out where the crack is, then heated slowly up over 200 degrees c, welded then cooled down slowly to prevent it from cracking again right next to where it is welded. special cast welding rods will have to be used also.

thats no good! what ex housing size is it? should be under warranty. id send greenline a picture..

0.68, Internal

I'll see what Greenline have to say about the warranty, otherwise I'm off to the turbo repairer.

Seeing as its not craked right through, it could be braise welded with success, I have braised vices that have cracked and they work fine. You would still have to preheat and most important post cooldown in a heat blanket.

^^^ yes, wouldnt hurt to get the manifold machined. If i were you send GCG a email or give them a call, explain your situation. they would have the gear/know how and have the correct gear to machine it

I've got to send the turbo to HKS and see what they say. They want to see if I dropped the turbo or over tighten the nuts. Don't know how they could prove/disprove either.

I'm not exaclty the worlds stongest man, hell I'm not even fat, skinny as stick, so I doubt I over tightened the nuts. I definatley did not drop the turbo.

Greenline have been good, but they're only the middle man.

WISH ME LUCK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
    • That's my life. Past-Duncan has a lot to answer for
×
×
  • Create New...