Jump to content
SAU Community

Maximum Rev On Stock Rb30 Crank

VB-

By VB-,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

VB- Veteran

VB-

Posted
Posted

hey guys.

from past knowledge ive always noticed that a safe rev limit for built rb30s was around the 7,000RPM range, but after some research alot of poeple are claiming that the factory crank can do upwards of 9,000RPM. some even 11,000RPM.

i honestly find this amazing but have never tried (or to scared to i should say).

Most of you people know of R.I.P.S the awesome rb30 guys over in N.Z. they are one of the many that support this claim.

if its at all possible i would like to know, my setup consisting of a forged bottom end rb30 spitting out just under 350kw @ the wheels which has been driven quite softly for the last 5-6months (with the occasional punt :D ). what steps/tests would i need to do to insure that my rb30 is up to the task of 9,000RPM or how ever high. its currently got a rb25NEO head but in the next week will be swapped with a rb26 out of a r33.

i have been servicing the car every 4-5000kms. but i am about 2-3000kms late on the latest :P

any information would be GREAT!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265161-maximum-rev-on-stock-rb30-crank/
Share on other sites
TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

how well was the bottom end balanced when the engine was assembled? was the crank modified in any way? aftermarket harmonic balancer? what kind of valve springs? what cams?

If you have no idea what was done to the engine when it was built don't just go and set the limiter to 9000 as it will probably break something, On the other hand if the bottom end was properly balanced and has all the work done to it, does the head / turbo breathe well enough. It may be a step backwards as the engine cant pump enough air through to keep making power @ 9000 and you are just revving the engine for the sake of saying it revs to 9000.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

So is that anDru posting on your account or you asking for him?

Anyhow - if the turbo is still making power (for 350rwkw) @ 9,000rpm i'd be very surprised. Should be well out of flow so there is no point going to 9k.

Other issue is the head, parts and so on. 9k rpm wont hold forever on factory head bits before things start needing serious replacement money spent

R.I.P.S NZ Collaborator

R.I.P.S NZ

Posted
Posted

Just to clarify a few points.

I agree with the above guys, there is absolutly no point in revving the enigne to 9000rpm unless your still making good power at that point, you will probably find your motor will be falling away at around 7800-8000rpm.

The RB30 in the 240z has a stock crank (with our mods) stock cradle, stock mains bolts, perfect balancing, top class pistons and rods, normal tomei pump, normal wide type oil pump drive, RIPS wet sump and a world class cylinder head built to cope with 11,000-12,000rpm.

We regularaly run 9000-9500rpm and power is still climbing at that point, we hit 10,000+ during the burnout at times and have seen over 11,000rpm over bumps or when sudden wheelspin has occured.

Its not just a matter of putting the above parts together and its going to rev that high, I assure you there is ALOT more to it than that but with correct preperation, blueprinting and very anal assembly we have proven reliable at around 1400hp at those rpm levels.

My advise would be keep the rpm as low as possible to get the power you want.

Robbie.

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
a stock crank (with our mods)

Not being rude or anything Robbie, but its not really a stocker after you've modified it :thumbsup:

Nice addition to the rb30 results thread yesterday by the way, bring on the new drag car :down:

wat will it take to get an rb26 reving to 11rpm?

eg how much money talkin about for the head work?

and wat kind of balancing and blueprinting for the bottom end?

cheers

bill

Sh!tload. The labour bill alone will probably make you not want to do it.

Head parts dont seem too expensive when you just add cams. But then you get springs. Buckets. Valves. Guides etc.....thats where it costs quite a lot. This still doesnt count porting.

Realistically to do properly it with brand name gear, supporting mods and include all labour the bill will be higher than the value of the GTR it goes into if its an R32 or R33 and possibly R34 depending how far you go with suporting mods. Anyone with a seriously built car on here would agree :thumbsup:

ZILR-34 Experienced

ZILR-34

Posted
Posted

well my main goal is 440awks out of a r34 gtr.

im building up my parts list so far i got

HKS 2.8 step 3 stroker kit

HKS GT-RS turbos

but i want to rev hard and best response. track and drag car.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Not being rude or anything Robbie, but its not really a stocker after you've modified it :bunny:

Nice addition to the rb30 results thread yesterday by the way, bring on the new drag car :D

Sh!tload. The labour bill alone will probably make you not want to do it.

Head parts dont seem too expensive when you just add cams. But then you get springs. Buckets. Valves. Guides etc.....thats where it costs quite a lot. This still doesnt count porting.

Realistically to do properly it with brand name gear, supporting mods and include all labour the bill will be higher than the value of the GTR it goes into if its an R32 or R33 and possibly R34 depending how far you go with suporting mods. Anyone with a seriously built car on here would agree :bunny:

bollocks stevo. i'd be hard pressed to spend 10k on a race prepared 26 head even if i picked all the bee's knees bits. unless ur getting absolutely fooken raped

to set a head up with a 'race port', new seats, custom inner spring seat, 1mm valves both sides, dual springs, ti retainers, nice big cams, cam cap studs & using supertech gear would set u back 6.3k (i have receipts if u want lol)

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

I think the prices you and i get stuff for must be quite good, cause i can get it for around the same money, but not everyone has those connections ;)

Also i was taking into account the rest of the car which will have to be up to par as you'd know of course :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...