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Maximum Rev On Stock Rb30 Crank

VB-

By VB-,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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VB- Veteran

VB-

Posted
Posted

hey guys.

from past knowledge ive always noticed that a safe rev limit for built rb30s was around the 7,000RPM range, but after some research alot of poeple are claiming that the factory crank can do upwards of 9,000RPM. some even 11,000RPM.

i honestly find this amazing but have never tried (or to scared to i should say).

Most of you people know of R.I.P.S the awesome rb30 guys over in N.Z. they are one of the many that support this claim.

if its at all possible i would like to know, my setup consisting of a forged bottom end rb30 spitting out just under 350kw @ the wheels which has been driven quite softly for the last 5-6months (with the occasional punt :D ). what steps/tests would i need to do to insure that my rb30 is up to the task of 9,000RPM or how ever high. its currently got a rb25NEO head but in the next week will be swapped with a rb26 out of a r33.

i have been servicing the car every 4-5000kms. but i am about 2-3000kms late on the latest :P

any information would be GREAT!

Cheers

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TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

how well was the bottom end balanced when the engine was assembled? was the crank modified in any way? aftermarket harmonic balancer? what kind of valve springs? what cams?

If you have no idea what was done to the engine when it was built don't just go and set the limiter to 9000 as it will probably break something, On the other hand if the bottom end was properly balanced and has all the work done to it, does the head / turbo breathe well enough. It may be a step backwards as the engine cant pump enough air through to keep making power @ 9000 and you are just revving the engine for the sake of saying it revs to 9000.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

So is that anDru posting on your account or you asking for him?

Anyhow - if the turbo is still making power (for 350rwkw) @ 9,000rpm i'd be very surprised. Should be well out of flow so there is no point going to 9k.

Other issue is the head, parts and so on. 9k rpm wont hold forever on factory head bits before things start needing serious replacement money spent

R.I.P.S NZ Collaborator

R.I.P.S NZ

Posted
Posted

Just to clarify a few points.

I agree with the above guys, there is absolutly no point in revving the enigne to 9000rpm unless your still making good power at that point, you will probably find your motor will be falling away at around 7800-8000rpm.

The RB30 in the 240z has a stock crank (with our mods) stock cradle, stock mains bolts, perfect balancing, top class pistons and rods, normal tomei pump, normal wide type oil pump drive, RIPS wet sump and a world class cylinder head built to cope with 11,000-12,000rpm.

We regularaly run 9000-9500rpm and power is still climbing at that point, we hit 10,000+ during the burnout at times and have seen over 11,000rpm over bumps or when sudden wheelspin has occured.

Its not just a matter of putting the above parts together and its going to rev that high, I assure you there is ALOT more to it than that but with correct preperation, blueprinting and very anal assembly we have proven reliable at around 1400hp at those rpm levels.

My advise would be keep the rpm as low as possible to get the power you want.

Robbie.

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
a stock crank (with our mods)

Not being rude or anything Robbie, but its not really a stocker after you've modified it :thumbsup:

Nice addition to the rb30 results thread yesterday by the way, bring on the new drag car :down:

wat will it take to get an rb26 reving to 11rpm?

eg how much money talkin about for the head work?

and wat kind of balancing and blueprinting for the bottom end?

cheers

bill

Sh!tload. The labour bill alone will probably make you not want to do it.

Head parts dont seem too expensive when you just add cams. But then you get springs. Buckets. Valves. Guides etc.....thats where it costs quite a lot. This still doesnt count porting.

Realistically to do properly it with brand name gear, supporting mods and include all labour the bill will be higher than the value of the GTR it goes into if its an R32 or R33 and possibly R34 depending how far you go with suporting mods. Anyone with a seriously built car on here would agree :thumbsup:

ZILR-34 Experienced

ZILR-34

Posted
Posted

well my main goal is 440awks out of a r34 gtr.

im building up my parts list so far i got

HKS 2.8 step 3 stroker kit

HKS GT-RS turbos

but i want to rev hard and best response. track and drag car.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Not being rude or anything Robbie, but its not really a stocker after you've modified it :bunny:

Nice addition to the rb30 results thread yesterday by the way, bring on the new drag car :D

Sh!tload. The labour bill alone will probably make you not want to do it.

Head parts dont seem too expensive when you just add cams. But then you get springs. Buckets. Valves. Guides etc.....thats where it costs quite a lot. This still doesnt count porting.

Realistically to do properly it with brand name gear, supporting mods and include all labour the bill will be higher than the value of the GTR it goes into if its an R32 or R33 and possibly R34 depending how far you go with suporting mods. Anyone with a seriously built car on here would agree :bunny:

bollocks stevo. i'd be hard pressed to spend 10k on a race prepared 26 head even if i picked all the bee's knees bits. unless ur getting absolutely fooken raped

to set a head up with a 'race port', new seats, custom inner spring seat, 1mm valves both sides, dual springs, ti retainers, nice big cams, cam cap studs & using supertech gear would set u back 6.3k (i have receipts if u want lol)

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

I think the prices you and i get stuff for must be quite good, cause i can get it for around the same money, but not everyone has those connections ;)

Also i was taking into account the rest of the car which will have to be up to par as you'd know of course :)

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