Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Further to the successful WA "group" buy of cam gears from a Japanese supplier in the past, I thought I might test the waters to see if those people who missed out last time would like to create another one. I'm looking at purchasing an exhaust cam gear anyway so if I can save myself and other people a few dollars with a group buy, I may as well try and get one happening. I haven't spoken with the supplier yet but the Trust gears as advertised at 13,300 yen + shipping. I think from memory Adrian managed to get this down to 12,500 + shipping which worked out to be about $200 each landed.

Long story short, if you are interested in a group buy, let me know!

Cheers!

Dave:D

BTW: I'm posting this as WA only as it will work out better on the shipping (where the real savings lie in group buys)

I would highly recommend editing the "supplier's" name from the first post.

for obvious reasons he's a bit camera/fame shy, at least on bulletin boards.

count me in on one rb25det r33 exhaust wheel.

john - small gains in actual power (5 to 10 kw), but it does enable some shifting of the power curve towards the lower revs. which improves driveability.

also makes a huge difference if you have cams, apparently.

most of the guys last time put them in themselves, but I think you might need to ask someone with a dyno to adjust it for you properly.

Strichline I can't help but noticing that i think your avatar was modified in Photoshop to put a bit of white smoke in ??

I do rememeber when racing you at the plex that you drove around the skid pad :bahaha: :bahaha:

Only 32's can produce the real thing :P

Steve-SST:

Curious as to why you've chosen to stock US made gears rather than the proven Jap gears, especially considering it's a japanese engine. I would think convincing people away from the "brand name" japanese items would be harder than simply stocking them in the first place. Saying that, I think the Wolf 3D system you sell is a sign of changing times away from the once "only true choice" being the Power FC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...