Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

started ripping out my turbos today got to the point where I need to get through with the 3/8 drive socket through the dropped turbo but my uni joint broke anyhow. i have a couple of questions, first do I need to remove the oil lines from off the block before I take out the turbos or is it possible to leave it and unbolt it once the turbo has been removed? I know people have said not to bend the lines however once pushed aside the turbo should be free???? and second how on earth have people unbolted the flare nut on the rear turbo the one which runs from above the turbo over the shield and into turbo, it is almost impossible????

Cheers ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265780-gtr-turbo-removal-help/
Share on other sites

You need hands the size of the Jap's and some handy tools .

Yes they are tricky and can be removed while engine is in the vehicle.

start with the front turbo and remove it completly before starting on the rear turbo.

You should be able to undo the oil feed and water feed line on the passenger side of the turbo housing and leave all the pipe's on the turbo itself .

There is a tool called a crow foot or a pipe spanner that will undo the flare nut.

Where are you located?

Have fun!

You need hands the size of the Jap's and some handy tools .

Yes they are tricky and can be removed while engine is in the vehicle.

start with the front turbo and remove it completly before starting on the rear turbo.

You should be able to undo the oil feed and water feed line on the passenger side of the turbo housing and leave all the pipe's on the turbo itself .

There is a tool called a crow foot or a pipe spanner that will undo the flare nut.

Where are you located?

Have fun!

cheers mate yeah i went to bunnings and got a new uni joint and saw the flare nut spanner set and got em to save time. I have undone the bolts as per the manual so the oil feed lines are still on the block and undone them from the turbo is that the wrong way???

live in syd on the northern beaches, so anyone who wants the fun of getting them off is more than welcome to join me its going to rain on sat so tomorrow is do or die.

I removed my turbos not too long ago, it isnt that hard but very time consuming. I first removed the front turbo and left the water and oil feed lines attached to the block, I gently pushed them down in order to take the turbo out and it was pretty straight forward from there, I had one person under the car to make sure that they werent being bent while pulling the turbo out. The front turbo is the hardest but the rear one is pretty easy, its very straight forward once you have the front one removed.

That flare nut you are talking about I had heaps of trouble with I couldnt unbolt it either up to the point where it was totally rounded off lol. What I did was remove the bracket that holds the line right at the end, once you do that you'll notice that you can move it around enough to remove the turbo, thats because its actually a rubber hose right behind the head where that line continues, just dont bend it too much. Anyways thats how I did it because I was in panic mode lol.

I'd have no problem giving you a hand but Fatz has me booked out for month's with his contraption's

The right tool do go a long way

As miran1313 said leave the line bolted to the block and undo them at the turbo junction and gentle palm them out of the way . Once the turbo's are of then you can remove the oil and water lines from the turbos quiet easily

Well after starting at 7 in the morning and finishing at 6 tonight I have yet to finish mirim1313 mate time consuming is not the right word its f**king tedious work, got the rear turbo on banjo bolts seemed fine were slightly out but seemed to go on ok. 13mm stubby would have been good just for warning for anyone. So I still got the front to do and its going to rain tomorrow so looks like I am going to get soaked along with my tools. thanks for the offer Sato could have come in handy as I think once youve done it once it would be much faster. Well tomorrow is the day I hope to finish, will keep it updated. fingers crossed for tomorrow. Cheers for the words people.

Job got done yesterday, well it took me a little less than two days, i have no idea how people have covered that in 5??? Could do it in about 10 or less now maybe but anyhow missed some good surfing for an underestimate of time. I read through post but none were too accurate I may post up a how to as there are a few things I had to figure out. Cheers for the input

Ben

Job got done yesterday, well it took me a little less than two days, i have no idea how people have covered that in 5??? Could do it in about 10 or less now maybe but anyhow missed some good surfing for an underestimate of time. I read through post but none were too accurate I may post up a how to as there are a few things I had to figure out. Cheers for the input

Ben

Just depends how many times you have done it, also depends on the tools you have, i now have a full selection of different spanners, and different swivel ratchet spanners to get manifolds off. Also turbos in 33 and 34 gtr is much easier, i know between 32 and 34 gtr there is about 40-50mm more room from the turbo to the chassis rail as the car is wider.

Cef - what stuff did you reuse? I'm going to renew all the rubber pipes and banjo washers, but the metal gaskets look good so i'm thinking of just reusing them.

Also, there were no washers on the turbo to manifold, and turbo to dump bolt (some of the dump bolts were loose). Do i need to use anything special here because of the heat or will a regular spring washer do?

Yeah I bought from nissan a turbo repalcement kit, so its got all the copper washers going from the banjo bolts etc, manifold to turbo gasket, turbo to dump gasket and also oil drain gasket, and a few other gaskets. was around $130 from memory, I also had to buy head to ex manifold gasket. about $30 you need two. would be a good idea to replace some of the vacum hoses and clamps but thats prob it. there are no washers on the turbo to manifold bolts however there are some locking plates there which come in the kit I was talking about above. There are some solid washers in the manifold to head bolts which I just reused. hope that helps

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...