Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title states, wondering if anyone has ever sourced Rays valve caps on their own, or if I have to, with the valve stems?

I'm missing 2 as of Sunday thanks to some little f**king punks that took them...

Not interested in just putting shitty caps on, so don't tell me to use 'normal' ones...

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266318-rays-engineering-valve-caps/
Share on other sites

First thing I did when I got the GTC's was take off the RAYS valve caps and put different alloy ones on. Same with my TE37's.

You can get them from any RAYS wheels shop, try access auto in vermont.

Awesome info. I might try give Access Auto a call later.

have you guys heard of anti-theft valve caps? I've seen people selling them around so do a search and perhaps give them a try.

used to have valve caps with little hex grub screws holding them in. Was a pain pulling out the little hex key to unscrew them

You can borrow 2 off my TE's if you need to dezz, as long as you replace them :P

Thanks for the offer, but I'm after a permanent replacement so I'll be buying a set

Just rang Access Auto and spoke to Adrian and apparently they don't do them, he said it would have to be a special order for the whole valve stems.

If anyone does find out someone who definitely sells them please post it up. :wub:

I'm able to get some, however it will work out cheaper for me, and anyone else who decides to get in on this, if we buy them together.

I'll be getting them directly from Japan, and due to the cost of shipping to the guy handling it for me, it works out cheaper to buy a few sets at once than one on it's own.

I'm not going to organise a group buy or anything, but if you and anyone else wants a set, send me a PM and we'll sort it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...