Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok everyone.

i have decided what i am going to be doing with my R34, RUNVS2 aka Miss Betsy.

No, i am not turbocharging,

im supercharging :/

oh thats right, and no, i am not taking the piss. this will be actually happening.

Currently i am in discussion with my tuner, my engineers, and the place ill be getting the supercharger from to make this all happen. it will all be very custom, and alot of $$$ will have to put into it, but in the end it will be worth it.

Ill be using a 800hp Vortech Supercharger, and stroking my current engine to 2.7 L

Please do not go telling me what i have to do and what i cant do. you will be wasting your breath as i will not bother replying to it. I have my team of professionals, they are the people i consult on any questions or queries i have.

anyway, i cant wait :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267076-my-final-decision-for-my-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looking forward to seeing this! I saw it coming in a thread in the SA forum, good on you for doing something different! :/

Before I done the turbo conversion I was thinking about the possibilities of supercharging and I'd read a thread where someone had actually got quotes to make up the manifold etc.. now someone's going through with it all! good to see!

haha yeah i cant wait

im going with a centrifugal type supercharger (basically looks like a turbocharger). so really the only things that have to be custom made are the brackets for the supercharger itself and the piping for the intercooler :/

So your doing this (and all of your past work) out of your own pocket? Damn. I want your job.

lol yeah i am. this wont take 6 mths to do tho. its gonna be a lil while....but i would like to consolidate my loan and credit card hopefully by the end of the year....and well maybe get some extra coin for the engine rebuild too hehehe :/

Also, just curious. Do any of your mechanics have any estimate on what sort of power this thing will put out?

um over 500 rwkw and thats just from the supercharger. thats not incorporting the fact the engine will be stroked to 2.7L

will be a great project to see develop

so is that a constant boost pressure of 26psi!!

goodluck with this

no its not a constant boost pressure, unlike turbos, that have an aggressive boost, superchargers are progressive thru out the rev range

Good decision mate...

But the question is...will you miss the SSHHTTTT sound? :)

hehehe never had it to begin with :)

wow. good luck with your build. just be careful going from an n/a to over 500 atw

she wont be a daily driver anymore.....and ill be doing courses in advanced driving as well!

What mods to the bottom end need to happen?

basically we are going with a RB26 Crank, Aftermarket RB26 Pistons and Aftermarket RB26 Conrods + all the machining and what not that has to be done aswell.

Im choosing to go this option as it will stroke the engine to 2.7L

I dont have to, but im going to lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...