Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Aftermarket Suspension

iamhe77

By iamhe77,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

are the 2WD and 4WD ones the same? it looks very similar.

That was exactly my thought Iain. If not, the bushing will almost certainly be the same.

I'd be inclined to replace it with the factory one, given it attaches to the body not where you want a hard bushing to transmit noise & vibration.

I normally only use harder (polyurethane) bushings at the wheel end of suspension arms. Softer factory style rubber bushes at the body end to damp out vibration. A brand new factory style rubber bush will be significantly stiffer than one that's done 100 000kms. Poly bushes will still fail over time; bushes are a consumable item in cars; they do wear out, just not to the same degree as brake discs

This stops you from turning the car into a billycart (noisy & harsh) for very little change in rigidity and directness.

Edited by Daleo
  • Replies 465
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Ive heard Northshore do one of the cleanest compliance jobs, unfortunately mine wasn't done by them. Cam, I have worked out it was the silicone blocking the drain lip that caused the water ingress, al

Posted Images

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

thats a fair enough call.

im hardcore and not a pussy old man like you, so i can take a firmer suspension setting :P

i had poly bushes all over one of my S15s, and solid diff mounts in the rear. it was noisy and bumpy. but the good thing is you couldnt notice it over the exhaust that got in your head anyway haha

but it wasnt harsh. it just felt new again.

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

That was exactly my thought Iain. If not, the bushing will almost certainly be the same.

It is the same indeed.

But there is an option/correction to fix up pull to the left with a slight cast change with the non standard ones over the factory replacement.....thats if you have that problem.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

It is the same indeed.

But there is an option/correction to fix up pull to the left with a slight cast change with the non standard ones over the factory replacement.....thats if you have that problem.

Now that would be a worthwhile reason to change.:thumbsup:

chad bob Enthusiast

chad bob

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

I really need some input here.

I'm thinking of taking the cheap route on my 300RX M35 2WD. It's wallowing cornering is starting to piss me off after 3 years of ownership as it does not tie in with the amount of urge that the engine is providing. It hangs in fine on a single corner, but when I try and link two apexes together, the weight transfer is like a motor yacht.

There is a local suspension shop doing Tien 50mm lowering springs fitted for $450.

I was hoping that you guys could offer your opinion on how you think the vehicle will corner on standard shocks with lower, stiffer springs? I can get the BC gold coilovers but after I fit them and certification they'll set me back $2000. Money I'd rather spend on my Trackday weapon if you know what I mean :cheers:

So what are your expert thoughts? :cool:

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

So I fitted up the new poly bush's today....finally the frigging vibration has gone that I have been hunting for the last 2 years. Drive is great...feels like a new car again as it should as I have now replaced everything....my old ones were pretty well gone.

The replacements are a lot better in design as they allow for the arms to not load up continually

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

dude thats the 3rd time you have asked me, and yes it pulls to the left lol

seems like I have a memory like yours.....I'll let Adrian know I'm taking them.......I might go over this arvo and press them for you.

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

I finished the wheel alignment with the new poly strutt bar to chassis mount bushing in yesterday.....the ones that I got add about another 1 degree caster from the standard setup.

Car now handles a lot better through corners with less bump steer and a more precise point + my friggen vibration had gone when powering out of left hand corners.....I am actually thinking of backing off the sway bar one click now.

Please note....I had to replace mine because they were stuffed.....I don't know and I can only presume that it will make a difference over the standard ones if they are not shagged.

I have setup an exchange with the workshop using Iain's spare set of arm's.

Prices as below:

*Supply and press in the bush's into arms. $300(ex gst)....shipping not included. Please note that this will be an exchange set of arms so a returnable deposit will be needed to guarantee I get your arms, back.

*Supply and press bush's into arms + install into car $450(ex gst) through the Suspension workshop. Please note that this is for the Sydney people....Melbourne people can be sorted for an install as well.

You should not need a wheel alignment after doing this but the workshop I am using had the alignment setting if needed.

Guy's although I will be coordinating this atm I am not making anything out of it so please don't try to barter with me....price tend to go up for you as I don't barter or deal!.......PM me or call me for further detail.

cheers

Craig

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Thanks Craig, am I first cab off the rank? I have to get rid of this vibration under acceleration... :whistling:

No left hand pulling here, thats the missus job...

I need to get Iain's in his car first.....as soon as that is done I'll get yours done.

No...I was the first cab off the rank....then Iain....then you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...