Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

emanage can't and wont blow up your engine. the tuner might though... :D but yeah, providing the tuner knows what he's doing i'm sure you'll enjoy the results from the emanage. that goes for any ecu really. in general they are only as good as the guy tuning them. hardly any set-ups reach the limit of the ecu they are using.

I almost wish I had an emanage in the silvia so I could interface the profec E-01 I have with it... in fact, trent, what did you do with the emanage out of my silvia when you put the PFC in it?

oh, and I'm not sure who's tuning your car, but if you haven't settled on someone firmly yet then you should talk to "uras" on this forum. not many in aus know as much as he does about emanage and tuning them. I'd not hesitate in letting him tune mine that's for sure.

i think i got a new old stock s13 p'n'play kit laying around, will have a look.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You shouldnt even need a ECU to hit 200 or close to.

With a FMIC, dump and front and catback, you should be right.

Saw it with my own eyes last week. My mates 25 equipped 32 with those exact mods (even stock airbox) and an 040 Bosch pump, no boost controller, on a brand new DD dyno. 201kw.

If I was you I would:

Get hold of a standard ECU and use that since your current remap is shit

Get a nice 3" dump and front, 'ultra high flow' cat

Get a good panel filter

With those you should hit close to your goal of 200 without anything else. If you did choose to still go the emanage then you would achieve better fuel economy and a crisper drive, depending on tuner of course.

yeah but it will run much better properly tuned with the emanage. sure he can get 200 with the stock ecu, but economy for 1 goes out the window. the car will be much punchier/crisper with a good tune in it. and will get better economy too. :P

and trent, thanks mate. :yucky:

You shouldnt even need a ECU to hit 200 or close to.

With a FMIC, dump and front and catback, you should be right.

Saw it with my own eyes last week. My mates 25 equipped 32 with those exact mods (even stock airbox) and an 040 Bosch pump, no boost controller, on a brand new DD dyno. 201kw.

If I was you I would:

Get hold of a standard ECU and use that since your current remap is shit

Get a nice 3" dump and front, 'ultra high flow' cat

Get a good panel filter

With those you should hit close to your goal of 200 without anything else. If you did choose to still go the emanage then you would achieve better fuel economy and a crisper drive, depending on tuner of course.

Yeah I did think of that, but then as Beer Baron said, fuel economy will b worse then, and Ive already bought the emanage and Im goin through with the tune, the fmic goes in tomorro and getting a 3" front pipe comin soon

You shouldnt even need a ECU to hit 200 or close to.

With a FMIC, dump and front and catback, you should be right.

Saw it with my own eyes last week. My mates 25 equipped 32 with those exact mods (even stock airbox) and an 040 Bosch pump, no boost controller, on a brand new DD dyno. 201kw.

If I was you I would:

Get hold of a standard ECU and use that since your current remap is shit

Get a nice 3" dump and front, 'ultra high flow' cat

Get a good panel filter

With those you should hit close to your goal of 200 without anything else. If you did choose to still go the emanage then you would achieve better fuel economy and a crisper drive, depending on tuner of course.

impossible.... unless running stoopid boost.

I don't reccomend an E-Manage even on a stock setup, fork out the $1k for the Microtech LT-10 and find a good tuner and you won't be dissapointed.

Never.... a calculator would do a better job. I do a alot of microtech tuning and i can tell you they are shit.... extremley basic (will make peak power) but are poor for cruise, very coarse mapping points etc... the emanage blue could match the lt-10s power delivery easy but offer far better driveablilty.

im sick of people saying the microtech is a good ecu for rb's... they arent unless your after the cheapest least featured ecu that will JUST run your car. The only person who defends them are owners who dont know what they are missing.

Never.... a calculator would do a better job. I do a alot of microtech tuning and i can tell you they are shit.... extremley basic (will make peak power) but are poor for cruise, very coarse mapping points etc... the emanage blue could match the lt-10s power delivery easy but offer far better driveablilty.

im sick of people saying the microtech is a good ecu for rb's... they arent unless your after the cheapest least featured ecu that will JUST run your car. The only person who defends them are owners who dont know what they are missing.

Another Microtech hater, sure they're not the don of all ECU's but for what he wants and the price it's better than an e-manage, or are you one of those tuners that will only tune JDM ECU's.

I've seen tunes on microtech tunes on 9 second cars running the relatively basic lt-10 on engines that will run this time consistently.

Or are you just saying that Microtechs will be shit at tuning RB based engines? Again, seen scores of GTS-T's and GTR's running basic bolt on's using a lt10 being tuned on a mainline dyno to perfection.

It's not like he is going to need a M880 to run what he plans on having.

Another Microtech hater, sure they're not the don of all ECU's but for what he wants and the price it's better than an e-manage, or are you one of those tuners that will only tune JDM ECU's.

I've seen tunes on microtech tunes on 9 second cars running the relatively basic lt-10 on engines that will run this time consistently.

Or are you just saying that Microtechs will be shit at tuning RB based engines? Again, seen scores of GTS-T's and GTR's running basic bolt on's using a lt10 being tuned on a mainline dyno to perfection.

It's not like he is going to need a M880 to run what he plans on having.

A hater he may be sounding like but from how I read URAS' post I see him acknowledging this ECU will make high (peak) power but in turn suggesting the drivability of the capable tunes to be disappointing when comparing them to even the basic e-manage ECU.

As you say 9sec cars run on these ECU's but how comfortable/economical would these cars be tuned for? I would suppose they are tuned for maximum output over driver "feel." The appliction in question as yourself stated you are aware of, suggests is not for making people say "WOW nice dyno graph" but instead acheiving a healthy comfortable tune.

Edited by Klymax
Another Microtech hater, sure they're not the don of all ECU's but for what he wants and the price it's better than an e-manage, or are you one of those tuners that will only tune JDM ECU's.

I've seen tunes on microtech tunes on 9 second cars running the relatively basic lt-10 on engines that will run this time consistently.

Or are you just saying that Microtechs will be shit at tuning RB based engines? Again, seen scores of GTS-T's and GTR's running basic bolt on's using a lt10 being tuned on a mainline dyno to perfection.

It's not like he is going to need a M880 to run what he plans on having.

i take it you have one? i tune everything from Haltech, Motec, Autronic, Mircrotech, Adaptronic, Emanage, Reytec, Vipec, Link, PFC, Wolf, VCM suite, BRE and i can tell you the microtech is the BLUNTEST tool among them.

Carbies do 6 second passes should we all go buy one?

i take it you have one? i tune everything from Haltech, Motec, Autronic, Mircrotech, Adaptronic, Emanage, Reytec, Vipec, Link, PFC, Wolf, VCM suite, BRE and i can tell you the microtech is the BLUNTEST tool among them.

Carbies do 6 second passes should we all go buy one?

lol :P

trent i spoke to cat and i'll be in next thurs... i can grab that nistune sr20 ecu while i'm there if you get the time :D (no rush tho, i haven't even got the cat yet...)

impossible.... unless running stoopid boost.

No, thats what it pulled. Spiked to 11 then bled down to 10 up top, like I said, no boost controller, just straight hose from intercooler to actuator. And no, the intake sensor was not hanging near the exhaust manifold!

Anyways....get the tune done and let us know how you go, I would expect youll be impressed with the end result.

Just FYI, it took me 3 goes to start my car this morning equipped with a Microtech LT10S POS. Thats tuned by CRD too.

How can you recommend them to anyone. They are also incompatible with ATTESSA if equipped. When i can afford to, I'm pulling mine out in favour of something that will actually start the car first go in the cold and won't give big block type fuel consumption.

I'd be trying the piggyback, though apparently Dr Drift does some sort of remap or Nistune type job for the R33 ECU now?

Just FYI, it took me 3 goes to start my car this morning equipped with a Microtech LT10S POS. Thats tuned by CRD too.

How can you recommend them to anyone. They are also incompatible with ATTESSA if equipped. When i can afford to, I'm pulling mine out in favour of something that will actually start the car first go in the cold and won't give big block type fuel consumption.

I'd be trying the piggyback, though apparently Dr Drift does some sort of remap or Nistune type job for the R33 ECU now?

yeah there is a few remap options available now but they are dear, best off with a new ecu. I cant justify them to my customers.

Edited by URAS

Would a SAFC NEO be alright to get the car running nice around 200-220rwkw or would the emanage be better for the same thing? I will be basically doing the same things as Ben. Full exhaust, FMIC, new coil packs, 11psi stock turbo (Max) and maybe fuel pump upgrade.

Thanks Ed

i take it you have one? i tune everything from Haltech, Motec, Autronic, Mircrotech, Adaptronic, Emanage, Reytec, Vipec, Link, PFC, Wolf, VCM suite, BRE and i can tell you the microtech is the BLUNTEST tool among them.

Carbies do 6 second passes should we all go buy one?

No, I have a Power FC currently. Also owned a HKS FCON V Pro on a heavily modified GTR.

I hope you're not a Microtech distributor because you seriously stated some shit ECU's in your spiel that Microtechs have lengths on in tuning capacity.

This debate is over for me, you wont change your mind because apparently you're an all knowing "TUNING GOD", and I won't change mind because I've gone through enough cars and ECU's to have the knowledge of a good ECU and tune.

Edited by Parag0n
Would a SAFC NEO be alright to get the car running nice around 200-220rwkw or would the emanage be better for the same thing? I will be basically doing the same things as Ben. Full exhaust, FMIC, new coil packs, 11psi stock turbo (Max) and maybe fuel pump upgrade.

Thanks Ed

should be easily possible, I have the mods in my sig and made 195rwkw on 10psi with stock fuel pump

No, I have a Power FC currently. Also owned a HKS FCON V Pro on a heavily modified GTR.

I hope you're not a Microtech distributor because you seriously stated some shit ECU's in your spiel that Microtechs have lengths on in tuning capacity.

This debate is over for me, you wont change your mind because apparently you're an all knowing "TUNING GOD", and I won't change mind because I've gone through enough cars and ECU's to have the knowledge of a good ECU and tune.

lol.... i think i'lkl take trent's word thanx...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...