Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This engine was originally built with the intention of replacing the RB20 in my 4 door 32. It soon became apparent that, that wasn't going to happen and a better home for it would be in a GTR, but since i don't own a GTR that would prove difficult, so the RB25 in my Sil80 was the next best thing. BUT that engine is already producing 430rwhp with fantastic torque, and really, how much power can an S13 chassis really put to good use?

So the S13 got the nod and the build started. Went thru 3 RB30 blocks before a suitable one was found. I guess there's nothing overtly special about this build compared to the many others, except it's mine!

RB26 head, light port, decked, CC'd chambers, performance springs, standard valves, stem seals, seat pressures etc etc

Tomei 260, 9.1 cams

Adjustable gears

Custom fuel rail

Head oil return to sump

Siemens 870cc injetors, 2 pintle design

Sard FPR

Cometic HG

GTR pleunum and throttles.

Head Restrictors and enlargend oil returns

Block xrayed, decked and internally painted, welsh plugs etc

Spool rods, ACL pistons 9.0:1 comp ratio

ARP head bolts

ACL bearings

Crank polished and grub screwed

Ross balancer

N1 oil & water pumps

Jun crank collar cryo treated

Enlargened RWD sump with baffles & doors

Now i did have a GT3540 0.82 ex housing but i lent it to a mate to diagnose a problem he was having with his car, which it fixed so i probably won't bet it back :blink: SO, i can either continue this route, or go twins. I'm leaning towards twins and a set of 2530, be it HKS preferably or -5's

Designed to be a time attack engine so response is paramount. There is only a few with twins that i can find.

Here are some pics, not many but you get the idea

IMG_0972_2.jpg

IMG_1001.jpg

IMG_0977.jpg

IMG_0985_2.jpg

IMG_1004.jpg

Edited by Simonster
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268005-rb2630-build-yet-another-one/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 277
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nice one

3540r would be great response and powerwise for what you want, the -5's would be aswel of course but i think you'll find the single easier to work on and setup

Its strange, i've just sat down and did all the calculations that Garret use on their website to determine the most suitable turbo for your application and the 3540 doesn't flow enough air for my target hp. Which is strange as i thought 600hp (at the engine) would be achievable based on what others are getting with the 3582. But the numbers don't agree?

They don't have any calcs for twins though :banana:

But, i have a gut feeling the 3582 would be ideal. i have found some HKS2530 with standard ex manifolds that have been extrude honed and ceramic coated plus trust front pipes...mmm both my top 2 picks, which one to choose?

I agree, the single is no doubt cheaper and easier to work on, am unsure which way to go. I just keep thinking of the Mines R34 GTR, that thing is an animal with 2530's.

Turbo selection isnt the sole reason the Mines R34 is quick :ninja:

35R i would still choose; easier to work on, cheaper etc. But yeah, buy the 2530's and all that other gear for when you do get a GTR.

You're going for time attack, dont go overkill on the power - wheelspin doesnt make you fast :banana:

My old single setup is on an rb26 powered S15, making within 2rwkw of what my car made with the same turbo, its on full slicks and definatly doesnt need anymore power as it struggles to get it to the ground already in so many places where my gtr could just hold it flat and pull away. The S15's old setup though (R34 N1's) was deadly out of corners but ran out of puff on the straights.......tough choice you've got ahead if you really need 600hp. Have a look at the regs for the time attack you'll be entering regarding tyres and work around the tyres as the weakest link, as you know already, S chassis's cant just cop bucketloads of power and get it to the ground :)

Turbo selection isnt the sole reason the Mines R34 is quick ;)

35R i would still choose; easier to work on, cheaper etc. But yeah, buy the 2530's and all that other gear for when you do get a GTR.

You're going for time attack, dont go overkill on the power - wheelspin doesnt make you fast :P

My old single setup is on an rb26 powered S15, making within 2rwkw of what my car made with the same turbo, its on full slicks and definatly doesnt need anymore power as it struggles to get it to the ground already in so many places where my gtr could just hold it flat and pull away. The S15's old setup though (R34 N1's) was deadly out of corners but ran out of puff on the straights.......tough choice you've got ahead if you really need 600hp. Have a look at the regs for the time attack you'll be entering regarding tyres and work around the tyres as the weakest link, as you know already, S chassis's cant just cop bucketloads of power and get it to the ground ;)

Hey Steve, Yes i understand re the Mines 34, i was generalising.

Nice re your S15, there aren't many S13's here in Brissy that do time attack. I run mine on semi's. You are right though, i don't need 600hp although the work done to this engine isn't fully utilised unless i go at least another 100hp over my RB25.

This isn't aimed at you...It funny how people complain about wheels spin and how "my engine just lights the tyres" i don't find that at all, but i've always been able to control the engine power with throttle without any drama?

Well, guess what, ive put a deposit on a GTR ;) NOW i have another problem. This car a decent engine N1 block and seems to have decent bits in it. Just need to decide whether to keep the 26 in the GTR or drop the 30 in. It'll never see the track, it'll be my daily driver.

Anyway thanks for your input! I'm planning on coming down to Eastern Creek laster this year in the S13. Be good to have a go on a track that just doesn't have mainly right turns!

When you come down here send me a PM, ill head out to EC with the GTR for a bit of comparison ;)

Throttle control can of course stop that sort of wheel spin, i agree, still this S15 (not mine btw, good mates) lights up full slicks without issue even when trying to be careful.

Nice one on the GTR purchase! Got pics? For a daily driver, and if its already got the N1 block, keep it 26 but id be putting the 2530's on asap and getting a good tune :P

I always start these sorts of builds but pull the pin when i get scared of the dollars :P I ditched the idea of single and went to a 26 head so i could easily run 2530s so i could make a nice meaty 350rwkws with a bit of fuel and boost in 4th and 5th i may be able to jump it up to 370-380rwkws for places like Phillip Island and Sandown. LOL i am now selling the 26 head and other bits i had started to collect.

Will be interesting to see how a good RB30 goes in an S13. I cant help but be scared of RB30s and be concerned that they have too much grunt/torque for cars trying to go quick. There is that lttle devil on my shoulder that says rotors are so quick at the track as they are light and make good power with revs, but dont turn tyres with low-mid rpm torque. So i m sticking with less torque setup and hoping for some mroe revs and power up top

Real keen to see your results!

I always start these sorts of builds but pull the pin when i get scared of the dollars :P I ditched the idea of single and went to a 26 head so i could easily run 2530s so i could make a nice meaty 350rwkws with a bit of fuel and boost in 4th and 5th i may be able to jump it up to 370-380rwkws for places like Phillip Island and Sandown. LOL i am now selling the 26 head and other bits i had started to collect.

Will be interesting to see how a good RB30 goes in an S13. I cant help but be scared of RB30s and be concerned that they have too much grunt/torque for cars trying to go quick. There is that lttle devil on my shoulder that says rotors are so quick at the track as they are light and make good power with revs, but dont turn tyres with low-mid rpm torque. So i m sticking with less torque setup and hoping for some mroe revs and power up top

Real keen to see your results!

That's interesting Roy, i've watched your trip around PI a number of times on youtube, just loved it. For a guy in QLD, its quite hard to get to PI, but am aiming for Eastern Creek.

I'll keep the RB25 for a little while, still to decide if the 26/30 will go in the GTR or the S13. I really don't know. gotta board a flight to Hawaii

Cheers

Now i did have a GT3540 0.82 ex housing but i lent it to a mate to diagnose a problem he was having with his car, which it fixed so i probably won't bet it back :happy:

Haha, some how I don't think you'll see it again.

Awesome build Simon, an extra 100hp in the 180 would be nuts, throw it in the GTR I say and give me the 26 :P

Well if you ever head down there is always a bed available for interstaters :P

Thanks for the offer Roy, i appreciate that!. It'd be good to catch up with some of you fast guys in Sydney to pick your brain, as i still have a lot to learn

haha simon...mate we got alot of catching up to do! We are back in the game again :P

TWINS! You know you want too! Just do what mark and russ have done.

Hey Michael,

Great to hear you're back again. I've taken aim at your sprint track time- I know i won't get it but hey you have to set your goals high :(

Yes, i am leaning towards twins, it is the more expensive option, the 35 is a tried an tested route and will probably be the 2nd option if the twins fall though or $$ become the limiting factor.

I have an upgrade for thesplitter, this will really improve the front grip- this is an expensive route, but i know it'll work. Just have to convince the miniser of Finance and Sexual Relations :blink:

Russ's car is a monster, I'm not even in the ballpark when it comes to that

I'm in Hawaii, home in a week, with a new/old GTR sitting in the garage.

Hope to catch up soon- Time Attack 19 May QR?

put the 26/30 in the GTR simon. :(

AWD plus the added torque will make for a pretty nimble little car

Hey Mitch,

Yes i may well do that and sell the GTR engine....mmmm N1 block, almost can't believe i'm considering that :P

How's the 31 going??

Edited by Simonster
Haha, some how I don't think you'll see it again.

Awesome build Simon, an extra 100hp in the 180 would be nuts, throw it in the GTR I say and give me the 26 :P

I thought you'd want the 25?? The 26 is putting out 330ish kW on 16psi though

geez....your not far off it though, a 57.3 is pretty damn good...but the next time attack is where it will be at! Hopefully see how everything will go. I think the next time attack for us is in july or thereabouts? Car isnt in a running state atm. But will be by then.

So its settled, 26/30 in the sil80, twins and about 400rwkws and go do 52's on the sprint track! Ill lend you some slicks to do it if you want :)

Hey Michael,

Great to hear you're back again. I've taken aim at your sprint track time- I know i won't get it but hey you have to set your goals high :D

Yes, i am leaning towards twins, it is the more expensive option, the 35 is a tried an tested route and will probably be the 2nd option if the twins fall though or $$ become the limiting factor.

I have an upgrade for thesplitter, this will really improve the front grip- this is an expensive route, but i know it'll work. Just have to convince the miniser of Finance and Sexual Relations :)

Russ's car is a monster, I'm not even in the ballpark when it comes to that

I'm in Hawaii, home in a week, with a new/old GTR sitting in the garage.

Hope to catch up soon- Time Attack 19 May QR?

geez....your not far off it though, a 57.3 is pretty damn good...but the next time attack is where it will be at! Hopefully see how everything will go. I think the next time attack for us is in july or thereabouts? Car isnt in a running state atm. But will be by then.

So its settled, 26/30 in the sil80, twins and about 400rwkws and go do 52's on the sprint track! Ill lend you some slicks to do it if you want :D

Settled, hardly. I have to sit down and have a very serious chat with myself about which way to go and what engine goes where...strange problem to have though!

Your kidding right, there's no way i'd go under 56.xx on semis.....slicks would be another matter though :)

Realistically, I think a 56.7 is possible if i get everything right. I've fixed a break problem the car has had for a while but, just waiting for a dry track so i can test the new limits....been out in the this year, twice its been wet, beat the AWDs' too :) They weren't happy about that i can you

So what changes have you made to the car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys, Just want some advice on r34 GTT ac system. Since I’ve owned it, the ac compressor, doesn’t matter the set temperature or ambient temperature, runs for around 10 seconds then disengages the clutch, then re-engages everywhere 30 seconds or so and keeps repeating this.    is this normal?   I had it recharged today as it was slightly low and thought it would fix it but still does it. it cools fine in summer even prior to the recharge, except for the usual warmup when stopped or in traffic (still yet to wire overheat fan to on with ac)   any thoughts would be much appreciated 
    • To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.
    • Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.
    • Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...
×
×
  • Create New...