Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Giving the car a good ol' detail the other day and while I'm washing I get to the rear wheel wells, and notice at the back of the

sideskirt where you would imagine a mudflap to located, that general area, there is a small black plastic cover/casing that seems

to serve no purpose other than to hold up to the last 6months of driving worth of dirt / glass / bits n pieces of whatever you ever

drive over and from wherever.

I didnt try get under the car to remove it, but there seems to be no hole so it doesnt act as a drain, its literally just there for what

seems to me, to catch dirt and make my cleaning job longer than what I had anticipated due to the amount of dirt that came out

of it.

Anyone able to shed some light on what this might actually be there for ?

You can almost bend it 120degree's to try remove the dirt it holds, and it wont snap or break and will just go straight back to its

original position also.

Be interesting to see what other people say/ think or even knew if it was there..

time is limiting factor here with photos unfortunately, that and the fact it would be all black on black if I took something..

quite simple really... go to the rear wheel well of your car, you can see where the side skirt finishes, put your hand inside the wheel well

right behind the skirt and you will feel this big black plastic cover that is open at the top..

you can stick your fingers into the hole it creates, then you realise you can bend it back and all of a sudden you notice all the dirt n crap

it holds in it....

how would that work?

I didn't remember seeing anything around the door jamb when the doors were opened that could indicate some path of air to escape if that's to equalise the pressure...

maybe just a bad design, and they decided to put a plastic cover on top to reduce the whole crap load of sh1t it would have collected without the cover?

how would that work?

I didn't remember seeing anything around the door jamb when the doors were opened that could indicate some path of air to escape if that's to equalise the pressure...

Not necessarily from the door jam. Some cars have them so when you close the doors, the cabin pressure that builds up when you close the door is released through a vent at the rear, enabling the door to be closed easier.

Might not be the case for this, but a possibility.

Boods.

  • 2 weeks later...

Is it behind the wheel? Almost like a L-shape when viewed from side on (a vertical piece, with a flat horizontal tray) where the horizontal bit is a quarter circle?

There'll be one on either side of the car, but have different shapes.

Edited by scathing
Is it behind the wheel? Almost like a L-shape when viewed from side on (a vertical piece, with a flat horizontal tray) where the horizontal bit is a quarter circle?

There'll be one on either side of the car, but have different shapes.

you still have not helped us solve the mystery... what does it do!?

Is it behind the wheel? Almost like a L-shape when viewed from side on (a vertical piece, with a flat horizontal tray) where the horizontal bit is a quarter circle?

There'll be one on either side of the car, but have different shapes.

yeah thats it, no idea wtf it does or why it there though

you still have not helped us solve the mystery... what does it do!?

Just making sure I'm talking about the right thing first. :(

yeah thats it, no idea wtf it does or why it there though

It is probably the OEM rear diffusers. They smooth the airflow leaving the rear wheel well.

On the Australian delivered 350Z, it's standard on the Track and optional on the Touring (I ended up picking up a set for my Touring from the USA). Apparently the Touring has a Cd of 0.30, and the Track (with a small chin spoiler, rear bootlid spoiler, and these rear diffusers) drop the Cd to 0.29.

When I spoke to Pro Concept about it they told me they took theirs off their race car. Like you, Josh said the only thing they were good for is collecting dirt whenever they came off the track. If it takes those 3 items above to drop the drag co-efficient by only 0.01, taking them off will probably do sweet f**k all.

Edited by scathing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...