Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr 34 Vspec11 Nur

nur vspec11
 Share

Recommended Posts

nur vspec11 Apprentice

nur vspec11

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys

After following a few of the r34s getting tuned of lately i decided to take the plunge and get my car tuned aswell. So after a few phone calls to CRD i organised the truck and shipped it down to Sydney. The car being a stock standard Vspec11 Nur with a Nismo exhaust i decided to add a few bolt on goodies of them being Sard 700cc inj with a Sard fuel reg, HKS fuel rail, Bosh 044 intank pump ARC airfilter box, Tomei poncams 260's, Apexi power fc and a ATS clutch to handle the increased power. Well what can i say Jim from CRD called to let me know how he went with it and i thought he was having me on exceeded all my expectations shipped the car back home and gave it a test drive and all i have to say is F*** this thing drives so much smother comes on boost earlier than before even off boost it is heaps more responsive than ever before. Oh i would just like to add this was tuned on 98 fuel and the turbos are the standard n1 turbos that come with the Nurs. So on this note i would just like to thank CRD you guys seem to be on a higher level when it comes to tuning and modding GTR's :D

post-45273-1241674351_thumb.jpg

post-45273-1241674414_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268844-gtr-34-vspec11-nur/
Share on other sites
nur vspec11 Apprentice

nur vspec11

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Um is the second graph showing PSI?

As in your running 25 pound tapering off to 21 through standard 34 N1 turbos...

Do you have a before graph?

Should be one hellova ride though!

Yes i dont know why the boost tappers off it will hold 22psi it might be the standard wastegates on the turbos or the two cats the exhaust runs but yes it is a fantastic ride.

nur vspec11 Apprentice

nur vspec11

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I expect it declines because N1s stop producing power at the top end over 1.3bar or so,

your car is going to 1.75bar at boost onset, then declining down to the best the N1s can manage.

Is there a boost controller in the mix as well?

Yes there is a HKS boost controller.

where are your torque figures?

On the first dyno pic up the side just under 9000

it feels very torquey when im driving it.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Wow - i thought N1s/-7s/GT-SS were out of puff at about 330kw...

Please put this in the RB26 turbo sticky.

+/- 20kw really, also consider its running a few extra PSI than what most people run (20psi) so all things relative its pretty much spot on :starwars:

nur vspec11 Apprentice

nur vspec11

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahhh, the beauty of stronger internals in the Nur motor. Congrats Nick.

Stronger internals yes maybe how much stronger!! well that can be argued all day long. Was it the increased strength that gave the power figure above in this instance no i don't believe this was the case either this one was done purely on tuning ability. This thread was not put up to compare anyones car this was put up by me only to share my happiness at my result. There's plenty of other guys on this forum with the same set up running roughly the same amount of power no records broken here just a great setup that has made this car so much more fun to drive. By they way thank you for editing your post if you would like to talk to me about getting more power out of yours pm me id be more than happy to tell you how.

JAGR33 Grand Master

JAGR33

Posted
Posted

Is there 2 different cars plotted on these graphs?

I see the NUR is making around 320awkws and the R34 GTR is making 358awkws.

So assuming your car is the red line who's is the blue line?

And what happened to the rest of the graph? Speed or RPM would have been nice to see...

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted
Is there 2 different cars plotted on these graphs?

I see the NUR is making around 320awkws and the R34 GTR is making 358awkws.

So assuming your car is the red line who's is the blue line?

And what happened to the rest of the graph? Speed or RPM would have been nice to see...

i was just about to post that.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...