Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clearly I'm not the most mechanically savvy member, but I am learning. Anyway, can a turbo timer be put on a NA car?

Reason I ask is cause I'm looking at what the owner claims to be a "non turbo" Supra with one installed.

I guess it's just a little electrical device that keeps the engine running a few minutes longer? Does it serve a purpose at all on a NA car, or it just for the wank factor?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269091-maybe-a-really-dumb-question-but/
Share on other sites

Wank factor X 11tybillion. it is used on turbo cars to cool the turbo down from the high temp exhaust gases made at high rpms... helps with keeping longevity of turbo by letting bearings cool, oil be drained properly.... blah blah.... all that sorta stuff.... not really needed on stock standard turbo skylines unless absolutely flogged....... just keeping the key in the ignition for a min or two does the same trick.... for those rare occasions you would fang it that hard...

u can still put one on any car though...

the only reason... the ONLY reason.... (apart from wank factor) I could think why he put it on an n/a supra is because he fangs it really hard at the track regularly and cant be bothered letting his car cool... if that was the case... car = thrashed = don't touch it anyway...

Unless the engine is highly modified...

Or it gets a good "thrashing"...

The turbo timer on a N/A is just for a peace of mind to allow then engine switch off at a cooler temp, like what WYTSKY said.

If I've been driving my car quite hard (which I very rarely do) - like through the twisties, I just ease right off just before the destination, but if forced to stop, I just let the engine idle for around 30 sec (turbo timer is just a waste of money if you really don't need one - that money you save by not having one goes to the fuel you burn cooling your engine down).

I'm a firm believer you should always warm down the engine after a hard run or hot day because heat soak shortens the life of some components - for stock cars 30 sec is long enough.

Just my 2c

  • 2 weeks later...

if this is a white n/a supra your talking about and by coincedence its the same supra im thinkn of tht has a turbo timer one of my mates yes it gets driven very very very hard i have got no clue how it is still running

id go 2 this blokes house and haras the crap outa him...

:D

i agree its a bad option if the dude with an NA has one "because he drives it hard 24/7 and needs it to cool"

id steer clear of that one bud

I've got a turbo timer in my NA car, but it's integrated into the security system and didn't cost that much extra. If I ever remove the alarm, it'll be a selling point.

Electronically, though, there's nothing stopping you putting it on any internal combustion engined vehicle.

On the street I turn the car straight off anyway, but when I'm at the track I use it to idle down and cool the fluids that extra minute while I've walked off with my keys.

simple answer is yes.

but there is no point. even on a turbo car they aren't the best idea (good yes, but there are much better alternatives), for various reasons. the simple fact is that your car will cool down more when moving. also you are cooling down your brakes, etc when moving and not letting it sit there with hot brake pads in the 1 spot on the rotor. if you do thrash your car you are better off doing a lap round the block driving like a grandpa than just pulling up and running the turbo timer for a minute or 2.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...