Jump to content
SAU Community

Maybe A Really Dumb Question But...

KezR33

By KezR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted

Clearly I'm not the most mechanically savvy member, but I am learning. Anyway, can a turbo timer be put on a NA car?

Reason I ask is cause I'm looking at what the owner claims to be a "non turbo" Supra with one installed.

I guess it's just a little electrical device that keeps the engine running a few minutes longer? Does it serve a purpose at all on a NA car, or it just for the wank factor?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269091-maybe-a-really-dumb-question-but/
Share on other sites
WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Wank factor X 11tybillion. it is used on turbo cars to cool the turbo down from the high temp exhaust gases made at high rpms... helps with keeping longevity of turbo by letting bearings cool, oil be drained properly.... blah blah.... all that sorta stuff.... not really needed on stock standard turbo skylines unless absolutely flogged....... just keeping the key in the ignition for a min or two does the same trick.... for those rare occasions you would fang it that hard...

u can still put one on any car though...

the only reason... the ONLY reason.... (apart from wank factor) I could think why he put it on an n/a supra is because he fangs it really hard at the track regularly and cant be bothered letting his car cool... if that was the case... car = thrashed = don't touch it anyway...

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Unless the engine is highly modified...

Or it gets a good "thrashing"...

The turbo timer on a N/A is just for a peace of mind to allow then engine switch off at a cooler temp, like what WYTSKY said.

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

If I've been driving my car quite hard (which I very rarely do) - like through the twisties, I just ease right off just before the destination, but if forced to stop, I just let the engine idle for around 30 sec (turbo timer is just a waste of money if you really don't need one - that money you save by not having one goes to the fuel you burn cooling your engine down).

I'm a firm believer you should always warm down the engine after a hard run or hot day because heat soak shortens the life of some components - for stock cars 30 sec is long enough.

Just my 2c

  • 2 weeks later...
LUME Enthusiast

LUME

Posted
Posted

if this is a white n/a supra your talking about and by coincedence its the same supra im thinkn of tht has a turbo timer one of my mates yes it gets driven very very very hard i have got no clue how it is still running

astrotristan Grand Master

astrotristan

Posted
Posted
id go 2 this blokes house and haras the crap outa him...

:D

i agree its a bad option if the dude with an NA has one "because he drives it hard 24/7 and needs it to cool"

id steer clear of that one bud

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

I've got a turbo timer in my NA car, but it's integrated into the security system and didn't cost that much extra. If I ever remove the alarm, it'll be a selling point.

Electronically, though, there's nothing stopping you putting it on any internal combustion engined vehicle.

On the street I turn the car straight off anyway, but when I'm at the track I use it to idle down and cool the fluids that extra minute while I've walked off with my keys.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

simple answer is yes.

but there is no point. even on a turbo car they aren't the best idea (good yes, but there are much better alternatives), for various reasons. the simple fact is that your car will cool down more when moving. also you are cooling down your brakes, etc when moving and not letting it sit there with hot brake pads in the 1 spot on the rotor. if you do thrash your car you are better off doing a lap round the block driving like a grandpa than just pulling up and running the turbo timer for a minute or 2.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...