Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I snapped a right drive shaft in my R32 GTSt.

What I would like to know is what's the best way to fix it.

Do people buy new ones from nissan or just keep throwing 2nd hand ones at them?

Is it better to get GTR ones or R33 GTSt ones? What models are interchangeable?

thanks.

Russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269604-r32-gtst-rear-driveshafts/
Share on other sites

i have a spare r/h side driveshaft for sale suit r32gtst

r32 gtr driveshafts are 1 spline larger than gtst & are 6x1 bolt flange while gtst is 5x1 flange hubs on gtr are also larger

r32gtr rear subframe is a complete bolt in you just need to use gtst diff flange everything else inc shocks use gtr

you can use your gtst suspension with gtr subframe if you swap the hubs into the gtst uprights

if someone knows if 33 ones fit i havent had expierience with 33 rear subframes

Edited by jas/slo32

Thanks Jas.

I've already got onto some replacement ones here. QLD is probably not worth the freight coz of the weight.

GTR subframe or later model may be worth it in the future but not yet. I'll just keep throwing used ones at it. They're cheap enough.

What were you doing to break it?

Accelerating out of a corner. Small amount of wheels spin and when it gripped it broke.

I have given the drivetrain a hard time at multiple track days and drift days and I was suprised it broke on the street with street tyres... :)

  • 10 years later...

Nope. As in, I don't know of any. I'd be reasonably confident that you could talk to any diff/rear end specialist that does hi-po stuff and they could probably source/make new axles that would be made from stronger materials or perhaps have some pixie dust waved over them. I don't know if there's anything other than the Nissan CVs available.

Of course....the driveshaftshop.com replacements (at approx. 1 million Pacific Pesos!!!) use not flanged inner CVs and an adapter ring onto the 5 or 6 bolt diff axle flanges. This would obviously be an option to anyone getting something customed up. If there were much stronger CVs that you wanted to use that didn't mate up - just adapt them. Easiest done with new custom shafts too, so the total length can be set right.

Edited by GTSBoy

Just got a heads up from someone local (perth) that has done a set of gtr ones and many for off roaders etc

Seems more delve into it these days that used to I remember the times when you couldnt find anything

 

Thanks!

Edited by bcozican

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...