Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have done a search and nothing really has come up. I want to fit a slightly bigger cooler into my car, now I don’t want to go big aftermarket as I’m not a fan of the look. ( I am considering using a matt black spray can to help J)

I would like to get some insight if a gtr cooler will be a straight fit and how much bigger/ thicker it wil be?

I have also considered getting an r34 cooler too?

I only really want to be pushing 10-12psi through it, but not too keen on using aftermarket one. What is the easiest/ best option.

Plus I want to keep the pod, so I guess a stock cooler would make it leagal :D

Btw its an r33t.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/
Share on other sites

Pretty sure the R33 and R34 coolers can handle it. I think people just upgrade due to the lower cooling efficency at that boost level. R34 cooler should be alright for 12psi through a stock turbo

Edited by Boostin96
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4594499
Share on other sites

I used a R34 SMIC on my R33 and noticed the difference straight away. Was a direct swap which was very easy to do, plus didn’t have to cut anything off the car. Seemed to rev out a lot easier and was more responsive. If you don’t want a FMIC and only aiming to do the usual mods with 10psi or 12psi, then the R34 SMIC is perfect.

Although Im running a FMIC on my R33 now and it feels even better. Kind of feels like more torque. I was very happy! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4594524
Share on other sites

Running an R34 SMIC will work - However, once the power bug hits you, it will hit hard - and then you will regret not getting a fmic in the first place.

I believe the GTR coolers are more pricey then a aftermarket fmic kit.

The issue with those smic's is heat soak, and LOTS and LOTS of it.

If you can get an R34 smic for dirt cheap(40-50) then sounds ok, otherwise save the money and get a fmic and just paint it black.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4594585
Share on other sites

r34 SMIC is a straight fit so its a piece of piss to do. Good for 200KW ATW but constant runs see a drop in power. Heatsoak. I havent installed a FMIC for the same reason. That and id rather not hack the shit out of my car to make it fit...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4594941
Share on other sites

r34 smic on a r33 will handle 200rwkw easy...

but if you want something a little better and still stealthy, get yourself a r34 ARC SMIC..

harder to find, but worth it,,, they flow nearly as a front mount does without the heatsoak or the r34 smic...

or at least that has been the experience with the ARC cooler on my 33...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4595205
Share on other sites

guys can u explain heatsoak concept i'm not gonna pretend that i understand it. I'm not gonna boost it past 10-12 aka 200 rwkw. So i think that an r34 cooler would be alright?

a) don't wanna cut up all the crap cause makes the car look mega cheap

b) the cooler look doesn't float my boat- Considering getting and aftermarket one and spraying it matt black.

But i reckon that a nissan cooler should be good, like some of the aftermarket crap floating around is pretty bad. The other think i was gonna ask, how does the stock ecu handle 10psi cause i took my blow off value (lol yer i don't like the cooler look haha) cause it was backfiring, skylines are just tuned really good stock i concluded plus the stututututu was too much attention lol

Edited by P1OTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4595297
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Heat soak occurs when the intercooler can't shed the heat that it removes from the compressed air of the turbo. On a hot day, the intercooler can, like a sponge, become "soaked" with heat and lose its effectiveness.

Heat soak is one of the major reasons that turbocharged cars tend to run slower when the weather is warm.

Common solutions to improve heat soak is the use of a higher-capacity intercooler, or one that's mounted more in-line with the air flow, as in front-mount intercoolers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4768033
Share on other sites

before you even consider doing a replacement SMIC please read in full detail;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...40&start=40

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tml&hl=smic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Up...tml&hl=smic

i would go straight for the GTR intercooler its perfect and a factory item

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4768468
Share on other sites

if it is only for street use and you don't drive that hard the r34 cooler will do the job. if you plan on going to track days at all then don't bother with the r34 cooler. it will suffer from heat soak extemely quickly which results in more chance of pinging and less power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4768887
Share on other sites

before you even consider doing a replacement SMIC please read in full detail;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...40&start=40

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tml&hl=smic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Up...tml&hl=smic

i would go straight for the GTR intercooler its perfect and a factory item

As the OP was last heard of in May one presumes he has already made a choice but for the record I have read all three of the above links and I am still not convinced that the R34 smic is not a good choice for someone with a stock turbo. If you do repeated runs on a dyno with none of the fan air directed through the side vent then I am sure that the SMIC will get hot but I have used a trust smic on the track (around 200awkw) and when I pull in the inlet pipe (coming out of the intercooler) is cold. I am now running 16psi with a GCG highflow (around 220 -230awkw - will dyno again soon) and have a Nismo smic which is not much bigger than the R34 and it is now probably marginal. I am looking for an ARC smic and that will do me. I have slightly enlarged the vent and have made sure that the shroud directs all of the air that comes through the vent through the smic core. At this level and above I am sure that there will be benefits from a front mount but I don't want one. But with the standard turbo an R34 smic will definitely be adequate - you can pick them up here for $50 - $80 and there is no installation cost and no attention from the cops.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270004-stock-cooler/#findComment-4769592
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...