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Gtr Drive Problems

skyline-lemans
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skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

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anyone know what could cause this??. The 4wd light comes on, then goes off as normal.

I was at a drag race and people told me that only the rears were spinning. This explains my awful launches and slow 1/4 mile times.. the track was untreated and I was using much too hard yokohama advan slicks. Got a 13.001 @186kmh and my girl is really capable of more than that...I was about the only person not using mk drag slicks...

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skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

Posted
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Open your boot, take off the bit on the driver's side and check your ATTESSA fluid level

just checked it...the levels fine(a bit high), spun the wheels and the torque gauge shows power to the front.....my assistant said the fronts did nothing

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Just because wheels don't spin doesn't mean you have a problem. If anything, the fact that the rears break traction is the problem.

Go and read through any of the hundreds of threads that explain how the ATTESSA 4WD system works. Then decide if you actually have a problem.

skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

Posted
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Just because wheels don't spin doesn't mean you have a problem. If anything, the fact that the rears break traction is the problem.

Go and read through any of the hundreds of threads that explain how the ATTESSA 4WD system works. Then decide if you actually have a problem.

I know how it works...my other gtr works a treat...this one doesn't...

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

it could be so many things. search for attesa diagnostics either google or in the forum and run the diagnostic sequence then check the diagnostic light flashes to see if any fault codes come up. if they do follow up whatever they indicate is not working. if nothing comes up check the basics first. do you have the same sized tyres all round? are all the wheel speed (ABS) sensors intact? they can be easily damaged as they are quite exposed. you've already checked the fluid level. can you hear the pump prime when the car is turned on? go to a workshop and get them to put a pressure gauge on the pump. good workshops will know how to test the awd and know what type of pressure the pump should be outputting under certain conditions.

anyway, start by checking for fault codes.

skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

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it could be so many things. search for attesa diagnostics either google or in the forum and run the diagnostic sequence then check the diagnostic light flashes to see if any fault codes come up. if they do follow up whatever they indicate is not working. if nothing comes up check the basics first. do you have the same sized tyres all round? are all the wheel speed (ABS) sensors intact? they can be easily damaged as they are quite exposed. you've already checked the fluid level. can you hear the pump prime when the car is turned on? go to a workshop and get them to put a pressure gauge on the pump. good workshops will know how to test the awd and know what type of pressure the pump should be outputting under certain conditions.

anyway, start by checking for fault codes.

no fault codes...no nasty noises...pump runs..4wd light goes out...fluid level good....

it has uprated lsd's, and whoever wired the rear fog light managed to somehow give the brake light permanent live...so the brake lights come on when the ignition is off and if you turn the ignition on to listen to the stereo...you get that bloody awful buzzer all the time...

maybe they have tapped into something they shouldn'e have !

skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

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no fault codes...no nasty noises...pump runs..4wd light goes out...fluid level good....

it has uprated lsd's, and whoever wired the rear fog light managed to somehow give the brake light permanent live...so the brake lights come on when the ignition is off and if you turn the ignition on to listen to the stereo...you get that bloody awful buzzer all the time...

maybe they have tapped into something they shouldn'e have !

emailed the people who tuned it and dyno'd it before I owned it..they only have a 2 wheel drive dyno and said they think they either remove the abs fuse...or disconnect one of the front wheel speed sensors....

now my car does have very very heavy steering, but I put this down to a dodgy speedo conversion when it was brought over from japan...

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
emailed the people who tuned it and dyno'd it before I owned it..they only have a 2 wheel drive dyno and said they think they either remove the abs fuse...or disconnect one of the front wheel speed sensors....

now my car does have very very heavy steering, but I put this down to a dodgy speedo conversion when it was brought over from japan...

Heavy steering? Dodgy speedo conversion?

Japan is in km/h, what has it been converted to?

Heavy steering may indicate the HICAS computer has been disconnected, but that is the 4 wheel steering system, not sure which models get the heavy steering, I know the R33 does...

skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

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Heavy steering? Dodgy speedo conversion?

Japan is in km/h, what has it been converted to?

Heavy steering may indicate the HICAS computer has been disconnected, but that is the 4 wheel steering system, not sure which models get the heavy steering, I know the R33 does...

unclipped the connector by the bonnet release.... turn on ignition and attessa pump runs constantly...reconnect.turn on ignition and nothing....should it prime when the ignition is switched on ????? is it usually so quiet you can't hear it..but can only feel the vibration?

skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Heavy steering? Dodgy speedo conversion?

Japan is in km/h, what has it been converted to?

Heavy steering may indicate the HICAS computer has been disconnected, but that is the 4 wheel steering system, not sure which models get the heavy steering, I know the R33 does...

it's been converted to mph....not sure how it was converted but the car has a full cage so think getting the clocks out might be a problem??

skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

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just lifted all 4 wheels, the fronts spin when in gear but you can stop them with your foot.

I disconnected the clip under the dash and this did not cause the pump to run constantly...... which relay is it that controls the attessa pump...the blue or the black???

Am i correct in thinking the pump should be on constantly when the clips disconnected..???

skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

Posted
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just bled the system, still no power to fronts....they can be stopped with your foot !!... tried to spinning the rears but the fronts still didn't perform... no error codes.....pump seems to work fine.....levels good......what it is?? pleasse somebody......

Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted

+1 rooted clutches in transfer case. They pulled the fuse before putting it on a 2wd dyno without bleeding pressure off to the transfer case (or mech. disconnecting it). Difference in steering may be because they didnt plug the speed sensor back in, Hicas uses it.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
just lifted all 4 wheels, the fronts spin when in gear but you can stop them with your foot.

If the fronts are spinning under these conditions, then my opinion is that the ATTESSA is working. What does the torque-split gauge say?

AFAIK, the front diff is open, so it would be possible to stop one side, and the other side would continue to be driven. Is that what happens?

If you remove the fuse (in a R33), the car goes to limp mode (I believe) - that makes it impossible to run it on a 2WD dyno.

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

Just torque transfer by fluid coupling in the transfer case can produce the same effect.

I would suggest checking the pump again, and seeing if the pressure you are getting out is correct, not just hearing a noise.. R32 manual states between 294 and 490kPa (43-71psi).

If you are getting the correct pressure and still no drive, then clutch pack..

skyline-lemans Apprentice

skyline-lemans

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just torque transfer by fluid coupling in the transfer case can produce the same effect.

I would suggest checking the pump again, and seeing if the pressure you are getting out is correct, not just hearing a noise.. R32 manual states between 294 and 490kPa (43-71psi).

If you are getting the correct pressure and still no drive, then clutch pack..

The bleed nipple under the pump....turned on the ignition.....about 10ml came out...then no more.... the pump did not run constantly..as I thought it was supposed to with the bleed connector disconnected..should this bleed fast, slow or should I not have done it?

When you turn the ignition on and off the actuator thing clunks and sometimes the pump comes on...not often though..

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

When I bled my system, you would turn on the ignition, and there would be a slight delay and the liquid starts coming out, it wasn't that slow but it took a while to get through the tank in the back of the boot.

I turned the ignition on and off at least 5 times to make sure I gave the pump a break, there's a tutorial on this somewhere.

The fact that its not pumping doesn't sound right...

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