Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I decided against the coil packs that sit in the valley between the 2 cam shafts, so I made my own custome setup that works better and is much cheaper by using 3 holden commodore VT coil packs bought brand new for 45 dollars each and 6 igntion lead to suite required length came to a grand total of no more than 160 dollars after purchasing the mounting brackets.

110,000 thousand volts of pure electricity with a wasted spark mode for better fuel economy and the coil packs last longer and are cheaper and more readily available to purchase.

So think about that option as well I think it's a great idea works very well and I have been using it for 9 months now and not a drama and have increased power and fuel economy.

Splitfires ......... :devil: Get them. They are very good. This system replaces the original equipment coil pack and ignition wires with a direct ignition coil on plug system. The increased ignition performance found with the SplitFire Super Direct Ignition System is a must for all racing and performance enthusiasts.

I decided against the coil packs that sit in the valley between the 2 cam shafts, so I made my own custome setup that works better and is much cheaper by using 3 holden commodore VT coil packs bought brand new for 45 dollars each and 6 igntion lead to suite required length came to a grand total of no more than 160 dollars after purchasing the mounting brackets.

110,000 thousand volts of pure electricity with a wasted spark mode for better fuel economy and the coil packs last longer and are cheaper and more readily available to purchase.

So think about that option as well I think it's a great idea works very well and I have been using it for 9 months now and not a drama and have increased power and fuel economy.

i get these things in all the time and 9 times out of ten they are no better than stock.... in fact i just had a 4dr r32 in that would not crack over 15psi without closing the plugs down to .5mm.... it was using the AU setup. Best bet is new COPs or aftermarket COPS.

thats why wen my coils failed i bought a set of R34 GTR vspec coilpacks with under 40,000kms, and they work an absolute treat

ps. r33 series 2 and r34 gtr coilpacks are the same >_<

they might be hard to come by, but i found some almost straight away

cheers

Is it possible that these bigger coils need larger dwell time to charge up? I hooked up an oscilloscope the stock dwell time was only 1.8/2ms or something like that.

i get these things in all the time and 9 times out of ten they are no better than stock.... in fact i just had a 4dr r32 in that would not crack over 15psi without closing the plugs down to .5mm.... it was using the AU setup. Best bet is new COPs or aftermarket COPS.
  • 2 weeks later...
thanks everyone for your comments, obviously these are ok then, not a complete waste of time ...

regards

not at all. I have a had a set on my S1 R33 GTST for around 5 months now and they havent skipped a beat. They fixed my misfire issue instantly and Ive been giving em hell and they are strong as. Quite a few people are using these now and they are very happy. I got mine direct from paul at www.performance-wise.com and they also come with a 12 month warranty which as good as it gets with these products. I think there is a group buy for them here now on SAU aswell and theres also few good comments and info about these in the group buy thread aswell. Get em. You wont regret it and you'll have some change to get other mods :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...