Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i bought a oil cooler and relocation kit and i was wondering what the best way to install it.

can i mount the relocation so the oil filter points up? if so should i crank the car over a few times when i do oil changes to get pressure?

or should i just mount the filter down?

also should i have it so the the comes from the block to cooler to filter back to the block? or other way around?

cheers

Put the oil filter relocator wherever it's most convenient, mounting it pointing up can be alittle messy when the filter comes off. If you are worried about pressure try a smaller oil filter like the Z445 (edit: seems the thread is different than the Z145a) I think it is, instead of the Z145a

Edited by Moodles2
Put the oil filter relocator wherever it's most convenient, mounting it pointing up can be alittle messy when the filter comes off. If you are worried about pressure try a smaller oil filter like the Z445 (edit: seems the thread is different than the Z145a) I think it is, instead of the Z145a

ok arent you suposed to fill the filter and lines up with oil every oil change? would be hard if you mounted to filter point up, id rather it pointing up but if i had to fill the filter up everytime then id mount it pointing down?

yeah you do not need to drain the oil cooler every change. it's too hard unless your cooler has drain plugs fitted. if you do dran it simply remove cas or similar so you can crank the engine without it fiting. then lit it crank until you get oil pressure on the gauge. then your good to go. the twin oil coolers in my RX7 do have drain plugs on them though which is nice, but i've never seen an aftermarket kit that does. and the small amount of old oil in the lines and cooler is not a big problem. especially if you use good oil.

I never drained the cooler or lines either, ran one on my SR for 3years with no probs. If your not running a thermostat just remmeber in winter its gonna take a while for the oil to get to operating temp.

  • 5 months later...

if you loose a motor I personally would replace the oil cooler. you can have them backflushed but if it spun a bearing and bits of bearing material made it through the pump then chances are there is some in your cooler. It can be painful if it's an expensive one but is it worth risking the new motor? it does depend on exactly what happened though.

always always always replace the oil cooler, and also the cooler on the factory water to oil cooler next to the oil filter. $300 but you just cannot flush them out properly. As always I speak from experience in these matters :P

Duncan & BBaron if I ever doubt ya point me back to this thread

pulled the factory oil cooler thingo apart an well pictures say a thousand words they reckon

post-33041-1257568223_thumb.jpg

see now how impossible it would be to clean as well

oh well back to Nissan to hand over more hard earned

reckon I will pull all the sensors an stuff off an hot tank the base too

whats another coupla gaskets etc

always always always replace the oil cooler, and also the cooler on the factory water to oil cooler next to the oil filter. $300 but you just cannot flush them out properly. As always I speak from experience in these matters :blush:

You must go through a lot of oil coolers... :)

Priced factory cooler today now $420.10 according to my local Nissan

got a look at an rb20 today reckon the filter block looks like it would bolt up

unfortunately the owner of said rb20 wouldnt let me unbolt it to try it out?????

Just wondering if there is a recommend reliable oil cooler setup that is tried and tested for a 26, even it costs a little more? Given our dollar, a Japanese or even American unit would be reasonable I imagine?

The trust setup comes with a BNR32 arrangement: http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/oil-coo...andard-location

Or perhaps the PWR core with some custom lines: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category82_1.htm

  • 2 weeks later...

it is fairly straightforward to get rid of the factory cooler and bolt a oil filter relocator directly to the block. a lot cheaper when nissan want that sort of money for the factory bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...