Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, admitted i am a noob when it comes to this. The stock Oil bushes have gone and am up to replace. Have decided to go with Eccentric Caster superpro adjustable bush kit. The shop has quoted ~$500 for the kit, labor and alignment. Does this sound about right?

Also I was thinking that since the alignment is like $80 is there anything else worth doing with the susp while they are there? Are there any other bushes worth replacing?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271112-eccentric-caster-bushes/
Share on other sites

Castor bushes I think are around $220.. They seem to be quoting about 2.5hrs labour, which is maybe a bit much, but if they're thorough it's probably reasonable.

No doubt they'll pick up on other things as they see them.. to be honest all bushes may need attending to if they haven't already. That's going to be kind of expensive though. Front end you could consider upper arm bushes, lower arm bushes, steering rack bushes, swaybar d-bushes, and link bushes. Maybe tie-rod ends as well if they're flogged out, they're not too expensive.

Thanks mate, yea the alignment is in the price also. Man would love to do all the bushes while i'm at it, but yea will cost abit. :-(. wish I still had my Rud money :-(

They seem pretty thorough so will book it in to get done. Hopefully will fix up my front end feeling like its not connected to the rest of the car ;-)

Just wanted to make sure that amount was bout right, just seemd abit to me.

Seems expensive to me. I did that on my last car -this time got some good 2nd hand adjustable castor arms - unlimited adjustment for cheaper - easy to fit yourself (still need wheel alignment but).

$500 for a bush change, lol

the eccentric bushes are pretty average, maybe give u half a degree extra of caster adjustment, and they arent on-car adjustable. for $500, ill fly over and install quality adjustable arms for you that will give u on car adjustment of around 4 degrees of caster.

Bushes are bush- all are of simular quality, sounds like someone is taking u for a ride bad!!! See wat just the part cost and compare.

Got mine changed last week….. Paid 80bucks to get them pressed in and like whiteline bushes cost 120 buck. Add the alignment (only the Front) and its 240 job. That is the cheapest way I reckon. No point getting adjustable arms if u gonna keep the rest of the suspension stock.

I went a step up and got adjustable bushed on the front (on car) and that was a little bit more. Makes a massive difference and would 100% recommend doing this. I would say fixing the caster rod bushes made the car handle 60% and got rid of my brake shudder!!

Worth the investment just don’t over invest.

Hope this helps

dude just the standard whiteline bushes(got about+- 1 degree adjustment) 120 +fitted 80=200 plus and allignment, as above they aren't really gonna adjust them anyways it is very hard. I paid a lot for an allignment but i "feel the difference"

Don't over pay man! at the end of the day its 2 tiny pieces of rubber don't = 500 bucks unless its track suspension

As to adjustment I could never figure out how they did it either with the eccentric bushes.

So I cut a 5mm keyway cut into the thickest part of the center steel pin(2.5mm deep) and one in the bolt(2.5mm deep) and pressed the keyway into the bolt. Then cut a 2.5mm slot into the chassis where the bolt slides in. You cut an arrow on the head of the bolt so you know where the futhest point of adjustment is. To adjust all you do is loosen the nut and turn the bolt to the desired positon and tighten it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...