Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item 1:

RB26dett cyl head of an R32 complete. Previous owner hat it rebuilt but never used it, I got it for a 30/26 build but am going a different way. Has obviously never been used, has only been sat on a bottom end to 'look at', never been bolted to a head since rebuild. Includes Customised polished Rb26 cam covers with welded in speed flow fittings and 90deg bends, polished cam gear cover and valley cover, inlet manifold with polished throttle bodies, polished throttle linkages (which need assembly), inlet plenum (still in black paint), all manifold parts like the air channels etc, CAS mount and CAS, temp sensors and air regulation valves ETC, stock cam gears and what ever else I have for it.

$1800 with everything or $1600 with no cam covers, rocker covers, valley cover or cam gear backing plate.

Item 2:

Power FC for R32/33 GTR. Brand new in box, never used. Has all manuals and serial numbers ETC. In perfect condition.

Has hand controller......Not sure what else to say about it!

$1200

Item 3:

New never used JUN crank collar, has grub screws and instructions (in Japanese but the pics make sence).

$100

Item 4:

Brand new never used Trust twin turbo high mount Exhaust manifold. Has T2 turbo flanges and trust triangle waste gate mount.

$1000

All in Melbourne, will put up pics tonight.

My number is 0418 574 513.

SMS me only BEFORE 9PM! Dont call as I cant answer the phone while working.

To all the PM's (I can only reply to one PM every 5 mins!) I will not sell the RB26 covers on their own, they either sell with the head or I will keep them for the new project.

More gear, this time RB30 stuff.

Item 4:

Polished RB30 rocker cover. Could use a hand polish to bring it up to its best again. Includes larger breather fittings. DOES NOT INCLUDE NISMO OIL CAP!

Rb30bits001.jpg

$80

ITEM 5:

RB30 Cylinder head, good condition, includes WADE 1528 camshaft, machined lifter bodies and recently replaced (6 months) lifters. Have spec sheet for cam. Gave a slightly lumpy idle.

Rb30bits002.jpg

$250 the lot

**WILL NOT SEPERATE, WILL NOT POST**

ITEM 6:

T03 (VL) Turbo and Manifold, complete with oil and water lines. In excellent condition, the usual minor side to side shaft play, no thrust play. Works great, does not leak or smoke. Pics taken as soon as it was removed from the engine, will be cleaned up a little. Manifold has no cracks or leaks, will need a new turbo to manifold gasket tho.

Rb30bits006.jpg

Rb30bits007.jpg

Rb30bits008.jpg

$500

ITEM 7:

Custom inlet manifold. Bolts to N/A runners. Polished Alloy (needs a repolish though), Internal Bell mouths, polished XF throttle body, has provision for idle speed controller under plenum. Works great, awesome throttle responce compared to long cooler pipes.

Rb30bits005.jpg

Rb30bits004.jpg

$500

All in Melbourne.

** PRICES DROP**

RB26 HEAD. $1600 complete, $1400 without polished covers.

POWER FC $1000 FIRM.

Twin Turbo Manifold $800.

Someone buy this stuff :bunny: The 3L gear ran really well in my car and we only upgraded after i blew a head gasket.. Its all in great condition..

mr collins is up in sydney tonight and he wishes me to telll you

ya muma is a arse hat

Happy birthday man.

See ya at the island. Bring ya 31 woman.

Now buy my stuff!

hi, just wondering what flange is the twin turbo manifold setup (T2? )

Just wondering how big of a turbo I can run off each. Also was there additional bracing to the engine block?

cheers

Andrew

The flange size is T2. A pair of SR20 turbos fit really well, or something along those lines.

There was no extra bracing to the block.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...