Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wanted to do a little project on my skyline with relocating the turbo to some where hidden, and just have a few questions like, Is there any room besides the right side of the engine that could fit the stock turbo and the pipes bending into it? Would i have to buy a new manifold to attach piping? Estimated cost of custom piping and bends and labour of installing it some where else? Would i need any other parts to make it work or is it just adding the pipes and bends?

I'd be grateful for any feed back on my questions and no negative comments please cause i already have thought about all the negative shit about this operation.

Ta.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271662-turbo-re-locating-r33-gts-t-96/
Share on other sites

Thats not the smallest and easiest project you could come up with :D

If you want to hide the turbo (the stock position is quite hidden IMO) then you'd need a new manifold, but none around positions the turbo anywhere hidden. Just keep it as it is stock and make custom heatshield to hide that and the downpipe :down:

You could allways try to fit it closer to the front, then it would be hidden behind some of hte engine parts but it would need alot of new piping to be manufactured. Not a problem as long as you know how to though :D

cant help but ask why would you want to relocate the stock turbo? you cant even see it in stock form under all the heat shields and pipes. sounds like a silly idea? for the sake of this argument you could possibly make up a pipe between the manifold and the turbo to lower the turbo towards the gearbox, but you will compromise response.

you will also be up for new oil/water lines $300, dump pipe $300, induction pipe $150, bov plumb back pipe $50 & intercooler pipes $300 and much much more. So not worth the effort, time and money.

a complete waste of time, don't even bother. sorry but thats just my opinion.

Thats not the smallest and easiest project you could come up with :D

If you want to hide the turbo (the stock position is quite hidden IMO) then you'd need a new manifold, but none around positions the turbo anywhere hidden. Just keep it as it is stock and make custom heatshield to hide that and the downpipe :rofl:

You could allways try to fit it closer to the front, then it would be hidden behind some of hte engine parts but it would need alot of new piping to be manufactured. Not a problem as long as you know how to though :down:

Yeah the custom heatshield idea sounds much better, thanks ill do some research into that :D

cant help but ask why would you want to relocate the stock turbo? you cant even see it in stock form under all the heat shields and pipes. sounds like a silly idea? for the sake of this argument you could possibly make up a pipe between the manifold and the turbo to lower the turbo towards the gearbox, but you will compromise response.

you will also be up for new oil/water lines $300, dump pipe $300, induction pipe $150, bov plumb back pipe $50 & intercooler pipes $300 and much much more. So not worth the effort, time and money.

a complete waste of time, don't even bother. sorry but thats just my opinion.

Yeah i see your point. thanks, i honestly just thought it was cost of piping and labour but obviously not.

Yeah i see your point. thanks, i honestly just thought it was cost of piping and labour but obviously not.

In all seriousness i cant see the point of doing that? if its just to hide it from cops then that's silly. they are not stupid, they will still see the car is forced induction and it comes up when they check your rego. Its like taking a badge of a xr6 turbo, it looks the same as a normal xr6 but you still know its turbo.

If your not modifying your car then leave it in stock form, service it, look after it and just enjoy what the car has to offer.

cheers,

alex

Edited by 217/r33

^ avoiding P-plate restrictions i reckon.

End of the day, impossible and nothing more than a pure and utter waste of time.

There is no benefit to moving it, only hinderance - and hence my response is negative because you still get busted by the police

^ avoiding P-plate restrictions i reckon.

End of the day, impossible and nothing more than a pure and utter waste of time.

There is no benefit to moving it, only hinderance - and hence my response is negative because you still get busted by the police

+1

my point exactly, grow up and get these silly thoughts out of your head. if you are a p plater just tough it out otherwise you will pay the consequences.

Funny thing is, a mate of mine has done this to an old BMW while on his P's. He was pulled over numerous times and they never picked up on it, just his luck i guess.

Btw it was a shit and dodgey setup, needs some sort of pump to push the oil back to the motor.

Edited by Super Drager
needs some sort of pump to push the oil back to the motor.

electric scavange pump hooked up the the oil drain, APS supply these with there twin rear low mount turbo kits for the VE V8's as the turbo oil drains are only just above sump level.

electric scavange pump hooked up the the oil drain, APS supply these with there twin rear low mount turbo kits for the VE V8's as the turbo oil drains are only just above sump level.

I was going to do the setup myself, but for the amount of money it costs it is better to do a conventional setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...