Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There seems to be alot of info on how to restore yellow headlights online including sanding and polishing but none of it seems permanent and does not always come up 100% and I know most people are not going to want to spend huge $'s on new headlights so.....

Please let me know if the following idea could work:

Would it be impossible to get a mould made up of the headlight cover (with the clips as one piece) and have a batch made with a plastic moulding company? Does anyone have any connections or anyone in the industry that could give us an idea of how much it would cost or if possible? If one person were to invest in the mould and get a batch made up then I am sure that there are alot of Skyline drivers out there who would be happy to pay to have brand new clear headlights that won't re-yellow for a few decades at least (and a bit of a profit for the person willing to get the project going). The only catch would be the re-glueing of the halves together again.

Thanks, KTV

I've tried PlastX and it didn't do jack for my R34 GTT headlights (or anywhere else for that matter) .. is there a place in Sydney that does headlight restoration? I know Final Inspection in Melbourne does it and I've seen some pretty amazing results

My R34 looks like it has small stress fractures more than 'yellowing' so I'm not actually sure these can be restored.. so it'd be good to get a professional opinion.

what it is, is moisture getting inside the headlights, i had that problem too and like the above post said, every now and then just cut n polish it will look crystal clear for a few weeks.

i agree, your prob must be water on the inside of the lense, i have alittle bit on the inside of one and plastX makes it better but not 100%...

for the other headlight that doesnt have any leaks (yet), platX makes it look brand new

also ive never don it but to open the lense your meant to heat it up in an oven to melt the glue, then clean the inside of it, and re glue it..... i recon its risky if you forget the thing in the oven and you melt the whole thing lol

DID ANYBODY READ THE ORIGINAL POST???

Polishing and sanding only seam to be temporary repairs because the yellow comes back and the plastic is still deteriorating. Wouldn't it be better to just replace the plastic lense so it looks brand new for years/decades?

Does anyone know of a plastic moulding company that might do this in Brisbane? I will look into it.

Edited by KTV

KTV i hope you find what your after mate. I see your idea your after but i hesitate to believe it will work either.

The current lights are lexan plastic suitable for the job but it like almost any other clear plastic is subject to yellowing. Mainly on the outside but some have evidence on the inside too.

As you know you can polish them with just about any polish or compound, and its as you said only temporary. The latest hype, "Glassylite" product they claim works much longer so im looking to try that out soon.

Maybe if your looking to mould a new face you should be asking can a glass guy remake the face in glass??? Now that'd be an idea... Let me just say the first person to make a replacement unit for r33 & r34 with glass lense will make a fortune worldwide...

Are you saying you'd remove the current plastic lense and replace it with a new mould? That'd still involve taking it apart, so perhaps you could try cleaning the inside of the current lense with a cut and polish and resealing it (stuffed seal is probably the problem any way) before you go and try recreating everything.

I think you'd get close to the cost of new genuine lights having to design and fab new stuff. Also don't think you'd get any where near good enough quality and/or replication of the genuine items.

Had mine done 3 years ago and they are still crystal clear. My painter cut and polished them then applied (i think) a two pack polyurethane clear over the top. So it must be an oxidising problem that happening to the plastic.

Edited by PLYNX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...