Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All

I have been searching for about 4 hours now. I think I went through nearly every topic posted on the entire website. Well, that may be a small exageration on my part. I am looking to upgrade/replace the turbo I currently have in my car and I want to know the quickest/easiest way of doing so. Also, the cheapest.

What I want is a turbo that will just bolt straight on to the existing fittings and lines. I have no idea which one will do the job, I'm guessing someone out there will know exactly which one it is.

My car is a 1995 R33 GTS-T.

Please help, I think my turbo is about to die.

Cheers

Tony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/
Share on other sites

Totally depends on

1. Budget

2. Power aim/use of the car

Cheapest isnt always the best, you must understand and accept this as part of your decision.

Once you do that - follow this

1. Read the RB25 dyno sticky thread.

2. Find turbo's that fit your power goal

3. Search with those turbo ID's

4. You will see costs, problems and so on.

There are many many turbo's to choose from. Cheaper ones generally have poor response with OK peak power.

More expensive options generally have great response and great peak power making a very good overall setup.

Also bear in mind larger turbos lead too... and in some cases REQUIRE the following in order of importance

1. Larger Exhaust/Cat

2. Better ECU to tune/make USE of the turbo (no point upgrading turbo on a stock ECU)

3. Larger AFM

4. Larger injectors

So please take the time to address the above points yourself otherwise no-one is really going to be able to help you.

Overall in my opinion you dont really understand whats involved (refer to above points about other parts), so a simple replacement of the stock turbo with another one would be the best option. If your car is stock now and you want to replace the turbo - you have to spend at LEAST another $2,500 to actually make the upgrade any valuble use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/#findComment-4621241
Share on other sites

Overall in my opinion you dont really understand whats involved (refer to above points about other parts), so a simple replacement of the stock turbo with another one would be the best option. If your car is stock now and you want to replace the turbo - you have to spend at LEAST another $2,500 to actually make the upgrade any valuble use.

My apologies, I must have described the whole situation very poorly. All I really want to do is buy a new turbo for my car. I'm not looking for power gains, nor am I looking to lose any power. From the research that I have done, mainly with Garrett Turbos, I have found that they do require for new oil and water lines.

I basically want a new turbo to replace the one that I have. Just one that will bolt straight on with little or no modifications at all.

I hope that makes a bit more sense now.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/#findComment-4621258
Share on other sites

What mods do you have now though?

And im not sure where you have read that information about Garrett turbos, a large portion of Garrett turbos in a similar frame size are a bolt on affair that use the factory lines. Same as HKS turbos (which are Garretts with a badge and/or minor toying)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/#findComment-4621276
Share on other sites

This will be your best bet for what you are describing.

Yep.

If you wanted to spend more for the sake of reliability, you could get your current turbo rebuilt. Or even by a rooted one and get that rebuilt, so your car isnt off the road for too long.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/#findComment-4621615
Share on other sites

Hi again

The mods that I currently have are:

3 1/2" cat back exhaust (about to purchase a 3" dump pipe)

Large FMIC

Apexi Pod Filter

Aftermarket Coil Packs

GFB Boost Controller

What makes me think that the turbo is going to die, is the fact that it has been in the car for 14 years now and I think that it is dirty as hell or on the way out. It still manages to boost at around 12PSI though. So I could be wrong.

My other plan was to remove it and give it a massive clean and have it tested to see how bad, or how good, it really is. I was reading the workshop manual that I have and it hints at the point of black soot covering the rear bumper. Apparently it is caused by excessive carbon and sludge build up in the exhaust turbine. Which is why I was thinking of just cleaning it out.

I was thinking about having the current turbo recon'd, but then my missus said to me that I may as well buy a new one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/#findComment-4621845
Share on other sites

What makes me think that the turbo is going to die, is the fact that it has been in the car for 14 years now and I think that it is dirty as hell or on the way out. It still manages to boost at around 12PSI though. So I could be wrong.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/#findComment-4622056
Share on other sites

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Except your talking about a stock rb25 turbo that are prone to disintegrating when boost is above standard (he states he is running at 12psi)

Our stupid turbines are ceramic bonded to steal....

Here are a couple options.

GCG rebuilt with Garrett components (about $2000) chasers motorworks also offer a similar service

HKS GT-RS kit. (about $3500 imported from japan or add another 1k or so if you buy locally)

and thats about where it ends before your looking at new manifold, dump pipe, etc.

Cheers

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/#findComment-4622091
Share on other sites

I was reading the workshop manual that I have and it hints at the point of black soot covering the rear bumper. Apparently it is caused by excessive carbon and sludge build up in the exhaust turbine. Which is why I was thinking of just cleaning it out.

No, that will be due to the fact you have a stock ECU.

The stock ECU is fuelling up hard under load/boost, and this will be causing the build up on the rear bumper.

The exhaust housing/turbine is over 500 degree's... there wont be excessive build up going on there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272101-bolt-on-turbo/#findComment-4622231
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...