Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea not arguing

id happily buy either, shit id even buy a 550 navara to tow with if the actua car wasnt so overpriced and i needed a ute( i will whore to any brand)

260det ever priced genuine toyota 4wd parts before.....

america + air frieght = euro parts cheaper and delivered faster than any australia stealership

frontcut just wait 8 weeks

If you break down in the middle of nowhere I would fancy my chances a lot better of getting a fix for something popular Aussie or Jap than a VW. Not only getting parts but getting someone to work on one. Can see the Toerag attraction but breaking down towing a trailer with a racecar on it out in the sticks would be bad enough without having to work out how you are going to get it all home again to fix it.

Maybe I'm not adventurous enough :)

I am looking at getting a Triton GLX-R diesel, there is one at work which will be sold for pretty cheap soon.

Anyone have any experience with these? It is an auto BTW and 2011 model

depends how tall you are? im 181cm and it is sh%t. the bottom of dash drops too much and top of legs brush against it. very uncomfortable

Haven't seen the interior of a Triton GLX-R Diesel but I'm almost 6ft 2... and I drive a Nissan Navara D22 ST-R everyday and plenty of room and enough base features for a daily.

I picked mine up in 2011 brand new as a run out deal, and I believe they are still doing them for the same price around $30k

still cant go past the hilux as a budget tow vehicle... just did another interstate trip doing 12.5L per 100kms while loaded stops well, pulls up hills just fine and sits on 110 without even feeling the trailer.

only real issue is traction cause i have shit tyres on atm but will get some good treads when these are due for replacement.

which model/engine?

followed my father in law's boss the other day. he has a late model F250. he had the car trailer on the back with a '53 F100 on it. we were in a 90 zone, going up a hill (a few hundred metres long) and on the steepest bit he only dropped to about 85kmh. he was back up to 90kmh not long after the steepest bit though. i was pretty impressed, given that my commodore sometimes drops back to 3rd going up there and it didn't sound like he had his foot to the floor.

  • 1 month later...

Bumping this up, wondering if anyone has recent experience with a Falcon auto turbo sedan as a tow car, towing about 2000kg total. Also the late na six speed auto sedans, particularly fuel consumption figures.

Yeh I know that a fourby might tow better but I don't like driving trucks and am bit concerned about common rail and particulate filter problems with diesel SUV's.

For occasional towing up to 2000kg the Falcons will be fine. Definitely not as good as a decent fourby, but they're solid enough to tow that kind of weight and still be stable. As usual, check towing capacities, trans coolers (def better to tow with an auto) lock up T/C etc.

Have you spent time in some of the mid size fourbys? If you haven't you might be surprised how car-like they are - many of them even handle well these days (far from a sports car, but well and truly enough to keep up with traffic in all normal situations). Not trying to change your mind, just making sure you're being impartial. Each to their own.

Bumping this up, wondering if anyone has recent experience with a Falcon auto turbo sedan as a tow car, towing about 2000kg total. Also the late na six speed auto sedans, particularly fuel consumption figures.

Yeh I know that a fourby might tow better but I don't like driving trucks and am bit concerned about common rail and particulate filter problems with diesel SUV's.

search my posts in this thread for fuel consumption figures on the FG turbo and also the commodore VZ V6, i think it's a great choice but i would recommend you factor in a heavy duty load leveling kit which is about $700-$1000.

Yeh I looked at your Falcon consumption figures B before, very impressive. Load leveling kit requirement seems to depend on the amount of towbar weight, of course unlike a caravan a car on a trailer can be located to give the correct amount of weight which seems to be 10% of total trailer weight. The other thing seems to be that Falcons with sports suspension like XR6's are rated at a lower towing capacity.

08 model with the 3L D4D motor. goes alright.

mate bought a prado same year with the 4L petrol motor and it used twice the amount of fuel for the same trip and goes the same speeds up hills haha. but yeah the prado is more comfy for 4 ppl

We just took a New D4D Prado Kakadu (5speed auto) fully laden with a big tandem and WRX (atleast 2 tonne) from Melbourne to Lakes Entrance and back ~700Km. I was impressed with how easy it did it and how comfortable it was to be in.

Yeh I looked at your Falcon consumption figures B before, very impressive. Load leveling kit requirement seems to depend on the amount of towbar weight, of course unlike a caravan a car on a trailer can be located to give the correct amount of weight which seems to be 10% of total trailer weight. The other thing seems to be that Falcons with sports suspension like XR6's are rated at a lower towing capacity.

where are you planning on towing Richard? Remember Ford stipulates lower speed limits when towing over 1600kg. 80km/h is not great for any highway trip, let alone interstate ones.

I'm about to sell my old Patrol, but it is a complete truck. Would be nicer with sensible All Terrains rather than the 33" muddies, and with a muffler put back in. But it has a proper old school 4.2 diesel with DTS turbo kit. Particulates are encouraged to escape right on outta there with the 3" straight through exhaust :)

Towing the Zed Harry, a bit less than 2000kg all up on a tandem trailer. Not worried about Ford's speed limit assuming that applies to FG's, probably be an idea to run it past the insurer though.

Might be an idea to advertise the Patrol on PF, disappointing to see you retiring from racing though.

search my posts in this thread for fuel consumption figures on the FG turbo and also the commodore VZ V6, i think it's a great choice but i would recommend you factor in a heavy duty load leveling kit which is about $700-$1000.

You would need yur head examined to buy a VZ V6 for towing. I have a VZ crewman and dragged my race car from the gold coast to Melbourne. It used 19 litres to the 100Klms and was a dog towing up hills. The VZ engine is rubbish and has NO torque. The old Buick engine was a better choice for towing.

Falcon all the way if you seriously want to tow cars using an Aussie 6.

I am looking at a Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel for my next car. 3500 kg towing and a huge V6 diesel for $56K. Its a slam dunk. Cheaper than a Narvara and most other suggested tow cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...