Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Try one of the better brands where you're not paying for the name, like Michelin, Falken, Kumho, etc. Simex or Nankang if you're really on a budget (they're pretty good for cheap tyres). Do a search for specific models, it's been covered numerous times :rofl:

205/55-16 is stock gts-t size and i think 225/50-16 is GTR size (could be wrong). They're about the same overall diameter too which is handy.

Get the best ones you can afford, because good tyres will make a fairly big difference to your cars handling.

Check out places with second hand rubber too, you can get some real bargains on brand name stuff at the better end of the tyre spectrum

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

hmmm...I'm in the same boat aswell. My GTS-t is running 225/50/16. I currently have Yoko A539 but I've been doing some research and it's been quite negative.

Here's the current list of tyres I'm looking at (in 225/50/16) which some prices:

Falken ST115 - $198

Kumho ECSTA Supra 712 - $180

Dunlop FM901 - $220

Yokohama A539 - $185

Bridgestone G3 - $210

Bridgestone S03 - $240

Hankook K104 - (couldn't get a price)

Pirelli P7000 - $185

Sumitomo HTR Z50 - $145

now as you can see I have a big dilemma. The Sumitomo's are dirt cheap and apparently are quite good. But the fella at Jax said they're cheap and nasty. He recommended the Kumho or the Hankook. The bloke who recommended the Sumitomo's swears by them. He said bang for you buck there is none better. They're made from the Dunlop factory so it's not of dodgey quality, and they do handle well.

MOTOR's recent tyre view had the Hankook come up first (I'm told this I haven't had a chance to take a look). Dunlop FM901's are noisy - not sure if the exhaust will cover that noise. The S03's are soft like the G3 and the A539.

I'm trying to do some research about the Sumitomo's. I'll report back very soon. (I need new tyres by Saturday).

dunno if this helps, but....

Like most of you, I been through a heep of different tyres.. The best allround performance I ever had & still have are the Michelin Pilot X. A bit pricey but they're as quiet as mouse and grip like the all mighty. Falkens:( personally I'd stay away from them. The last set I bought I think they're were ST115's they were suppose to replace the GB's. Had them on a rex for a month "I would have been better riding on bare rims & took em :D " Got the Michelins & never looked back.

reporting back. I got the Pirelli P7000's as they were miles cheaper than other places.

They grip very hard. Hard to lose traction and make wheel spin, axel tramp is not longer a factor.

Around corners they seem very grippy but I don't know the limits of the car yet...

ive just replaced my rears with kumho 711 225/50/16 and the car feels terrible. mind u im still runnin 3yr old nangkangs at the front. the car feels very floaty especially when accelarating(i presume because of the shitty tires up front) and i get terrible understeer at low speeds. as for cornering they do the job well. went for a cruise with the wrx club yesterday to portsea and arthurs seat, couldnt wipe the smile off my face on those twisties then i was reminded how loose it felt on the straights.

anybody have any ideas on why this is happening??

Get Dunlop Formula 901s for $200 and you will not complain. My mate has them and he loves them. There not that noisy. I've got Dunlop W10's on atm and they are great. I sometimes find it hard to loss trackion in the wet and they are a great tyre for both road and track. I'm getting 901's next cause they are the replacement for the W10's and they are supposed to be better. The noise is unnoticable, I've been in my mates car and not noticed it at all, so I highly recommend them.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...