Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Did they tune the car or jsut run it on the dyno? Are you simply pointing out the differences in dynos?

Tune , i wanted to get the best numbers i could with the mods i have on my car. Just posting the details- time taken, hp reached and dollars charged

Oh ok. They are cheap tunes :P

What was the order of tuning. I mean the last guy is in the best position as he would have only been tweaking what otehrs had already done, whilt the first guy would have had the hardest job with the most work to do....lol or so i would think :)

Oh ok. They are cheap tunes :P

What was the order of tuning. I mean the last guy is in the best position as he would have only been tweaking what otehrs had already done, whilt the first guy would have had the hardest job with the most work to do....lol or so i would think :)

i dont know the ins and outs of tuning thats why i get guys like this to do all the work on my cars, all i can go by is dollars spent, time taken and hp reached. Just thought id post what i know.

so youve demonstrated by wasting money and running around chasing a few kw here and there that you should have been happy with your initial tune???

For me its not just the figure, its how they go about it.

Would love to know how much timing those workshops have in the tune. Might suprise you.

Yeh, ditto. But curious to know the order of who tuned the car first and last. Any feedback on the good old seat of the pants or fuel economy, or drivability? Pros/cons? LOL, i would kill for even your lowest figure :P

i put the dates next to stats , godzilla was back in march - cnj was friday - Mercury was today.

if i start putting up who i thought was best , might put a few noses out of joint (considering i dont know much about the tunning side)

Just out of curiosity what makes these three shops three of the best ?. Would just be interested as to what you base this statement on word of mouth, advertising, some ones recomendation ?. As from my own experiance i can tell you that you can not tune a car properly in 30 min 60 min would be pushing it for a good tune and the other place mentioned has sever attitude problems/very poor customer service and I personally know people that have had issues with all three of the workshops you have mentioned. So would just like to know your logic behind that statement.

i can see what you was trying to do but its not really help full to anyone.

its ok if you want to win prizes at auto salon but performance needs to be tested over a series of set goals. like taking it to the track with similar weather and tyre conditions without changing anything but the tune. ect ect. the CNJ tune for example is the lowest hp but it might be 2 seconds a lap quicker because they had tuned response rather than top end. and it might do 20 laps back to back because it was a safe tune. where as one of the others may be slow around a track because the car is laggy as shit and has un usable power. this tune may also only manage 4 laps back to back because it gets hot and starts to knock.

a good example is a friend of mine has a tuner "A" do all the work to his r33gtst. tuner A road tuned the car and had it put on a dyno just for a figure. it got a smigin over 300rwkw. but it would not even do a burnout. because it was a shit tune but it made 300rwkw. so he took it to tuner B who fixed all the issues caused by tuner A and got it retuned but it put out less power. but it does a good skid and runs like never before.

moral to the story is it the pice of paper doesnt mean much.

i have a few questions!

1. was the ecu reset between each tune?

2. who set the boost control, 2 graphs went to 20psi... but the godzilla one goes right up to 32psi (thats big boost and drops back to 20psi)

3. what turbo/turbos is on that thing? "WHY SO LAGGY"

i have a few questions!

1. was the ecu reset between each tune?

2. who set the boost control, 2 graphs went to 20psi... but the godzilla one goes right up to 32psi (thats big boost and drops back to 20psi)

3. what turbo/turbos is on that thing? "WHY SO LAGGY"

Where does the godzilla graph go to 32psi of boost

Rhys

post-48948-1244343705_thumb.jpg

godzilla motorsports. intake temp 56o, max power 519hp (and why on earth hp in Aus unless they want the number to look bigger?) 389kw

CNJ intake temp 27o, max power 283kw

mercury motorsports intake temp 25o, max power 514hp (same again, why?) 386kw

anyway, unless you've asked for or noticed major changes in the tunes, all you have demonstrated is dyno readings are a pretty meaningless comparison. The the 2nd tune feel like it had 40% less power?

like Damzo, I'm wondering what made you prefer one shop over the others - if you are worried about forum rules just call them shop 1, 2 or 3

Dont want to turn this into a he said she said .... they are the facts of what power they each got out of my car . I didn't have a preference over any of these shops , just thought id give out what happened.

if you have an alliance with one of these shops and feel the need to defend them cool go right ahead. Im not going to be dragged into all that bitchiness. i just wanted to put a bit of news out there.

oh yeah and i only meant "these three shops are SOME of the best in brisbane" im sure there are other shops just as good, these are just the three i went to. (tissues anybody ?)

did the tune with lower power really feel like it had half the power of the others?

did you re-set the power FC each time before going to the next tuner? that would be the way to go, see what each of them can do with the same starting point. cause if they are all just building on each others tune then it's hard to draw any conclusions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...