Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Im trying to source a cylinder head for the new engine I am building for my R34 GTR. I want to kee my current engine intact as a spare and build an entirely new engine and just do a swap when its ready.

So, apart from some porting, what exactly is the diferences between an R34 and R33/R32 RB26 head?

I believe the R34 exhaust camshaft is slightly diferent so it can drive the R34 CAS sensor.

I want to keep all R34 sensor compatability so I can run an FC on the new engine, so to do this can I buy an R32/R33 head and then just put a set of R34 cams in it?

Cheers,

Ian

Well problem solved, I dont need to worry about R32/R33 heads now.

I'll be able to confirm the CAS drive diferences for sure in a week or so. Just sourced a low K R34 head from a vspec 2.

Cheers,

Ian

Edited by GTRNUR

dont know if the cam profiles are different, but guess if your building a new engine for it then you might go aftermarket cams, in that case the only difference is the drive, so just make sure you order sticks for an r34 gtr so the drive is the same, the bare head is the same

the bare heads are all the same. no difference in porting or anything else. the only difference is in ancillaries. and of course the 34 cam drive for the CAS is different. cam profile is a little different too, but lift is the same across them all.

  • 5 years later...

Just to dig up and old thread....

Im looking at going the 26/30 route for my gtst and just starting to put parts aside....

Long story short, any of the 32, 33 or 34 gtr heads will be as good as each other??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
    • Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself.   First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?
    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...