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Hey,

As per Sydneykid's thread I got a wheel alignment done with the following settings;

Front:

Caster: +7

Camber: -1 deg

Toe: 0

Rear

Camber: -0.5deg

Toe: 2mm in each side

When I picked up the car, the suspension place warned me that the -0.5deg camber on the rear can land me in trouble on the track. They mentioned something about if i enter a corner quickly and put a lot of load to one side, i can change the camber to positive causing loss of traction and some other mumbo-jumbo. Essentially, he was saying that the back can snap on me due to the small camber if pushed...

I also had to sign a waiver stating that i accept there is a potential for the cars rear geometry to upset the handling of the car and make it unpredictable :(

What are your views? Should i change it to -1deg camber on the rear? or will -0.5deg be fine... haha

Cheers

you have gotten a street alignment.

It'll do for track on street tyres but it's not ideal. It's useless for semis.

As far as unpredictable, they are full of crap. It'll be predictable as hell as when you roll the tyre over the back end will want to slide. It'll do it exactly the same every time. But as you have bugger all front camber as well it'll probably be pretty balanced and not use the full tyre at either end...

hey where is this thread of his?

i really need and alignment

but been putting it off cos there aren't many good places here in tas :)

will take it somewhere with these settings and tell them

lol, what a joke. but for track use i rarely dip under -1.

i think what they mean is that u will roll over onto the outside of ur tyre really quickly through a corner with that setup, meaning ull get a reduction in contact path sooner through the corner. so ull have more straight line traction, but as u push harder through a corner ur car will want to step out more compared to a setup with more negative camber.

i dunno, not 100% sure what they mean.

hey where is this thread of his?

i really need and alignment

but been putting it off cos there aren't many good places here in tas :)

will take it somewhere with these settings and tell them

its hard, because it depends on what u intend on using ur car for, and how it feels now(what ud like to improve on)

its hard, because it depends on what u intend on using ur car for, and how it feels now(what ud like to improve on)

it feels like a bucket of shit (na its not that bad)

the tie rods have been removed and the coilovers wound up all round so as a result everyrthing is out and there is about 10 degrees of play in the steering now

tbh its never gonna see a track but we have some good roads here in tas but they aren't the best quality

car has coilovers but no adjustable camber tops

r32 gtst not pushing that much power either

alright, well here's mine:

F:

8 degrees caster

-2 to -1.5 degrees camber

3mm total toe out

R

-1 camber

0 toe

now i find thats fine, except im chasing more camber at the front. that gives a good setup for the track, for the street however it depends on how worried u are about wear.

for the street id go with -0.7-8 camber, 1-2mm total toe out, and maybe some less caster, i wouldnt go below around 6 degrees. then the 0 toe at the rear.

that should give u a nice feeling car, that doesnt chew tyres too bad. then go from there, if the car feels great then leave it, if it is still letting u down, report the issues and u can tune ur alignment from there. a lot of people would suggest going with a more neutral alignment, and tuning from there.

  • 1 month later...

nisskid seem to be the man to ask. he pops in up in heaps of threads and actually has good answers.

i have mine set for street use.

Havent had any bad wear but i work at a tyre joint so my tyres are fliped and rotated when ever im bored

Front:

Caster: +7

Camber: -1.0 deg

Toe: -1.5 total

Rear

Camber: -0.5 deg

Toe: 0

  • 3 weeks later...

can i jump in here and ask if the specs you are mentioning would work with a Hicas enabled R32 GTS-T?

I'm planing the add track day, skid pan and tarmac navigation rally, so i guess I'm looking for a comprosmise that doesnt chew out the tyres too much, particularly on the track if I invest in R tyres..

thanks guys,

martin

Edited by 116gtv
can i jump in here and ask if the specs you are mentioning would work with a Hicas enabled R32 GTS-T?

I'm planing the add track day, skid pan and tarmac navigation rally, so i guess I'm looking for a comprosmise that doesnt chew out the tyres too much, particularly on the track if I invest in R tyres..

thanks guys,

martin

tak eout your hicus fullstop if you gonna push the car.. its horrible and will mess your driving up

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