Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys was flicking through ebay pages and came across these gt35r style turbo's from PCP from the info i have gathered it seems like they are a copy size wise and should do the same as 35r but for under 800 bucks am willing to give it a shot, anybody seen or heard of these before the more info/opinoinsthebetter for determining if i proceed with the buy or not

its 70ar and 63 ar rear internal gate

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GT35-GT35R-SPEC-INT...%3A1%7C294%3A50

cheers guys

dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274123-gt35r-style-turbo-from-pcp/
Share on other sites

Its a gamble, but not really a cheap one, they dont have any warranty, so if it dies in 2 weeks, you are $800 down. If you have that sort of money to spend, i would get a holset hx35 and get it rebuilt, should be around $800

Yeah there's a warranty, but it's crap:

*3 month warranty commences from the date the item is posted.

*Any faulty item must be returned (at customer’s expense) to PCPA. If a new item is sent, customer must pay for return postage.

*Must report any manufacture faults with-in 3 days of when the item is delivered.

*Other than the faulty part, we do not take any responsibility for damages to other parts which may have been damaged.

*Warranty is only valid by a professional mechanic which has expertise in the field in which the car part is used for. A tax invoice also must be provided to give proof of the fitting.

*Warranty is void if the item is used for any type of racing or illegal street driving.

*Warranty is void if the item is altered in anyway.

*Warranty is void if any attempt has been made to repair a faulty item.

What a load of toss.......

hey guys was flicking through ebay pages and came across these gt35r style turbo's from PCP from the info i have gathered it seems like they are a copy size wise and should do the same as 35r but for under 800 bucks am willing to give it a shot, anybody seen or heard of these before the more info/opinoinsthebetter for determining if i proceed with the buy or not

its 70ar and 63 ar rear internal gate

cheers guys

dan

Well i see some problems here, apart from the fact its a ebay turbo

1. GT35 'style' does not mean GT35 performance... if anything it wont be close in terms of outright power, response, possible surge issues

2. If its indeed a 700HP comp wheel like a true GT35... then a .63 is the WRONG choice. GT35 and .63 internal gates do not mix.

3. #2 leads me to believe you have not dont turbocharge homework with regards to the housing choices/gate setup

and ye, the fact its ebay, bush bearing

As for the others talking about warranty, its performance. There is no warranty.

Just look @ Garrett's warranty as an example... there might as well not be one

As for the others talking about warranty, its performance. There is no warranty.

Just look @ Garrett's warranty as an example... there might as well not be one

This is the reason I went with Per4manz, their warranty is, "All of our units are backed by a written Warranty for a period of 12 months, 20,000km, 500 hours for new units & 6 months, 10,000km 250 hours for reconditioned units."

4 years old, 28psi, and still going strong. Gotta love it!

^ ye no.

It would still be a conditional warranty, same as Garrett's.

There is no way it would be open ended, there would be more too it

The only thing Grant stipulated with mine was that I was not to exceed the maximum boost level of the unit.

Well i see some problems here, apart from the fact its a ebay turbo

1. GT35 'style' does not mean GT35 performance... if anything it wont be close in terms of outright power, response, possible surge issues

2. If its indeed a 700HP comp wheel like a true GT35... then a .63 is the WRONG choice. GT35 and .63 internal gates do not mix.

3. #2 leads me to believe you have not dont turbocharge homework with regards to the housing choices/gate setup

and ye, the fact its ebay, bush bearing

As for the others talking about warranty, its performance. There is no warranty.

Just look @ Garrett's warranty as an example... there might as well not be one

im guessing you have had past experience with .63 housing and internal gate then. if i get a real 35r then it will be .63 housing as i want a really responsive set-up unlike making a cup of tea whilst waiting for it to reach boost threshhold lol. engine 26/30, should be on pretty early hopefully 3200rpm.

but yea, this turbo wasn't too sure about hence the topic. if you have any past history would be very keen to hear about it.

cheers

im guessing you have had past experience with .63 housing and internal gate then. if i get a real 35r then it will be .63 housing as i want a really responsive set-up unlike making a cup of tea whilst waiting for it to reach boost threshhold lol. engine 26/30, should be on pretty early hopefully 3200rpm.

but yea, this turbo wasn't too sure about hence the topic. if you have any past history would be very keen to hear about it.

cheers

why not get a .82 3076R. why get a 3582R and put such a tiny housing on it?

The only thing Grant stipulated with mine was that I was not to exceed the maximum boost level of the unit.

You should go and read the full version :)

How is there a maximum boost level anyhow, every motor is different therefore moving efficiencies across the map

im guessing you have had past experience with .63 housing and internal gate then. if i get a real 35r then it will be .63 housing as i want a really responsive set-up unlike making a cup of tea whilst waiting for it to reach boost threshhold lol. engine 26/30, should be on pretty early hopefully 3200rpm.

but yea, this turbo wasn't too sure about hence the topic. if you have any past history would be very keen to hear about it.

cheers

Not personally - but the sheer amount of users posting info is all i need.

I toyed with the smaller frame GT30, T04e etc on various motors.

If you want responsive and its on a 26/30, you are kidding yourself to run a .63 :)

Get a smaller turbo comp wheel if you want response, not a smaller rear housing (in this instance)... more reading the RB30 hybrid dyno thread :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...