Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mad082, if you consider the 'sound' of a car racing simulator to be categorised as a wank factor then go to time zone & play Daytona.

I put sound up there just as imortant as the handling physics of a game. Graphics I put at the bottom! I'd much prefer playing a racing game with pixelized graphics where the car handling physics are just like real life and give me goosebumps listening to them over a game with crystal clear real life graphics & cars that sound like vacuume cleaners.

The first time I played Forza, was Forza 3. And I tell you what, I lost my mind. I felt like spitting on my PS3 and snapping my GT5 Prologue disc in half afterwards because of it. (all because of the sound!!) Hearing the depth of detail of the Supra smashing the rev limiter absolutely blew me away. For the first time I actually enjoyed just driving the car straight in a racing game just because the sound was so realistic. The physics of Forza also were just unreal - sooooooooooooooooooooooooo far advanced over GT5.

In every Gran Turismo I've played, you can rev limit 5th spinning in a 600hp Supra and the car stays straight??? hmmmmmmmmm. In forza, once the car breaks traction, it naturally steps out making you have to control the car. If the cars dont naturally do this in GT5, ill find it bl**dy HILARIOUS after 4 years of work.

ok there is a few things here to address. yes i don't think having perfect to real life sound makes a game better than game with not as realistic sound. if it makes that much difference to you then fine, but i think you are just being picky. when i'm racing i hear the sounds of the car, but i'm not 'listening' to it. that is why it doesn't bother me. the other thing is, the quality of the speakers you are using make a huge difference.

secondly, the wheelspin thing, if you are going along a straight road in 5th gear and get wheelspin, the car won't always step out. it can in fact keep going in a straight line without stepping out at all. i've seen plenty of v8 supercar racing in the wet where they have been getting wheelspin on the straights and never had to make an ajustment to the steering. if the road is off camber or you are turning then it will step out.

mad082. Please hop into a 600hp Supra. Rev and dump 3rd gear off the line, then flat change 4th continuing the wheel spin and tell me if your car stays straight.

I dont care what road it is. Your car WILL NOT stay straight.

Guessing you've never driven a powerful rear wheel drive car with an LSD or locked diff.

mad082. Please hop into a 600hp Supra. Rev and dump 3rd gear off the line, then flat change 4th continuing the wheel spin and tell me if your car stays straight.

I dont care what road it is. Your car WILL NOT stay straight.

Guessing you've never driven a powerful rear wheel drive car with an LSD or locked diff.

haha what a coincidence i was just reading a HPI magazine after finding it next too all my ps3 games, and your car is in it, sweet ride :thumbsup:

BACK ON TOPIC, ill probs get it tonight so should i go online or wait until thursday, cause i might get caught and all??????

mad082. Please hop into a 600hp Supra. Rev and dump 3rd gear off the line, then flat change 4th continuing the wheel spin and tell me if your car stays straight.

I dont care what road it is. Your car WILL NOT stay straight.

Guessing you've never driven a powerful rear wheel drive car with an LSD or locked diff.

dumping off the line is hardly the same as getting wheelspin at high speed. there was no mention of dumping off the line in the post i was refering to. if there had been i would have replied differently as i am well aware of how the rear end moves around.

Forza is a great game... the tweaks you can do to the car's setup can really be felt when driving, pretty impressive stuff... pity after my 2nd RROD I binned the 360 and bought a PS3:( hopefully GT5 is even better... if its anything like the Prologue I'm burning the PS3

hopefully GT5 is even better... if its anything like the Prologue I'm burning the PS3

and just what the hell was so disastrously wrong with prologue? if they made any sort of improvement over that i'll be well impressed.

and im pretty sure the sound will be awesome.. the sound on prologue was awesome, and incredibly realistic. someone mentioned that the quality of your speakers makes a huge difference, well i have a very good quality amp and speakers (new in 1996, and was expensive) that have remarkable sound really. similar stuff you buy these days for the same money produce sound with nowhere near the clarity and depth that these things do. so i'd say anyone complaining about prologue's sound is probably using poor quality audio equipment. i used to sell stereos and the like up until a couple years ago and im here to say most audio stuff these days is absolute crap. unless your willing to part with a lot of cash.

I don't know what you're talking about :blink:

flightsimulator02.jpg

needs more monitors

and just what the hell was so disastrously wrong with prologue? if they made any sort of improvement over that i'll be well impressed.

and im pretty sure the sound will be awesome.. the sound on prologue was awesome, and incredibly realistic. someone mentioned that the quality of your speakers makes a huge difference, well i have a very good quality amp and speakers (new in 1996, and was expensive) that have remarkable sound really. similar stuff you buy these days for the same money produce sound with nowhere near the clarity and depth that these things do. so i'd say anyone complaining about prologue's sound is probably using poor quality audio equipment. i used to sell stereos and the like up until a couple years ago and im here to say most audio stuff these days is absolute crap. unless your willing to part with a lot of cash.

exactly right. when i bought my surround system i listened to quite a few different systems. those cheap dvd player surround systems have terrible speakers, as do a most tv's. my system isn't top of the line, but it is a sony component amp with floor standing front speaker and book shelf type rears and a good sub. the system retailed for about $1300 (i paid much less than that thanks to someone writing the wrong price on the sign for the speakers), and it sounds great. the standard speakers in the tv are terrible, so that is why i bought it. even just watching tv it sounds much better.

And why do we NEVER hear external wastegates in car games? lol.

i dont think many games companies want to encourage that kind of shit. bogans/rednecks arent the key demographic they'r going for.

wastegates vented to atmo sound horrible IMO. the sole reason to do that is to attract attention to yourself from all the wrong sorts of people, be it the police or other hectics like yourself..

Edited by jonboy

just rang the shop i'm getting it from to find out if they have it yet so i can pick it up on my way to work in the morning. they don't have it yet but are going to call me if they get it. otherwise i will have leave work a bit earlier tomorrow arvo. they said that they didn't get one of the NFS games (i think) until release day (that used to happen a bit when i worked at toywold as well. ps2 consoles we didn't get until lunch time of release day).

wonder if there's any shops planning on doing midnight release that will have to call it off because of not having stock?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...