Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok just realised like the wind indianapolis is 70k prize money for around 3:30 in a car capable of winning it. go toyota gt-one :thumbsup:

not to mention the massive stack of xp you get for it as well. my 1040hp Toyota 88C-V just rapes that- can just overtake last place at the end of lap 5

will be good once my B-spec guy is experienced enough for it

still only lvl 18 :( no b spec yet.....freaking old lambo is doing my head in......as is the computer drivers....yes i am next to you....no plz dont just drive me off the road as tho im not there......i dont get it, Prologue had epic AI drivers.....what happened?

yeah i have been spun a few times by AI drivers raming the side of my car on straights after getting in my slipstream.

not to mention the massive stack of xp you get for it as well. my 1040hp Toyota 88C-V just rapes that- can just overtake last place at the end of lap 5

will be good once my B-spec guy is experienced enough for it

now come on, power upgrades on a le mans car against other le mans cars, thats just cheating. basically any b-spec driver should be able to win it no problem, in fact thats the race i've been using to level up my low level drivers. and they win with no power upgrades, completely stock, just full downforce and maybe play with the gear ratios if you have to. make sure you keep the drivers stress level up at maximum or he'll get owned. i found the low level drivers were pulling way faster lap times on that race because they just hurl themselves into the corners full tit which is fine on this one because the car is capable of it, where as the higher level ones slow down, which isn't necessary at all.

1. create new driver.

2. win indianapolis like the wind, go from level 0 to level 7 in one hit.

4. ???

5. profit

your new Bspec botman wouldn't have the required xp for that race

pardon me sir, i beg to differ.

any b spec driver can enter any race, as long as the user's total b-spec skill is at or above the level needed for the race.

have done it many time

i played the game for about 5hours and gota over it, returned it back to eb games

i was dissapointed with it, thought GT5 was meant to be Gran turismo HD,

to be honest i have more fun with the r32 gtr in GT HD demo, on that same track then i do in GT5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...