Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im am very close to completing my rb26 powered s15, its fairly full house and plan on running 9's

ive just got few questions on what you more experienced guys can tell me......

i have a motec m8 pro, which is a mad ecu, but im unsure what to run...

it only has 4 direct fire ignition outputs and can obviously run wasted spark....

my tuner tell me i must go cdi with mecury coils... another dude told me i can set up splitfires to run with a motec cdi system???

what do yous rekon??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275163-ignition-system-rb26-650wheel-hp/
Share on other sites

If your tuner tells you to go a specific route, and you trusted him so far with your build, would you turn around to him and tell him to set the Spitfires up because another dude told you to go that way?

How would he take that?

If he's proficient in tuning M8's, I would take his advice as he works with them and would be talking from experience.

I'm not being a dick here, just the devil's advocate so to speak. :P

ive seen other setups make significant power without going as extreme as a cdi system, my tuner is like a high maintenance woman, he likes everything expensive...

im trying to save cash but not cut corners 2 much....

a cdi system is worth 2g inc coils,

why would i throw 2 grand if i could do the same job or at least similar and get the same result for something that costs 500 bux??

Edited by den001

cdi meaning 'capacitive discharge ignition' yes?

where by a unit that contains a bank of, probably electrolytic, capactitors supply the charge to each coil pack??

or does this unit feed a charge directly to the spark plug?

have a rough idea of how this work but not entirely sure.

in theory this system makes perfect sense for great spark power, as any one who has seen a large capacitor instantaneously discharged can verify.

^ what Ash said

heaps of full-on drag GT-R's in Japan just use the standard direct-fire coil setup with the addition of an HKS Twin-Power module

i was leaning towards that as i would also save cash on wiring....

can the plug gaps be opened up with this setup?

why cut corners on ignition when uve obviously spent an absolute motsa on an ecu and probably everything else in the car.

personally id go m&w cdi, m&w coils & magnacore leads. last time i spoke to m&w total in parts was $2350, that included an installation kit, pro 16 cdi (youd prolly have to use a different cdi seeing u cant use direct fire) 6 coils, and 6 custom made leads (leads made by magnacore which m&w recommend)

also, why did u chose an ecu that doesnt use direct fire ignition? :P

Spot on Shane...

Sell the shit and buy the real stuff.

fully wired two of these complete set-ups in drag cars while in QLD.

1 x Vi-PEC V88 ecu

2 x M&W drag 6 igniters

6 x M&W coils

one car runs 18 1600cc injectors drinking methanol and ran a 6.71 @ 209 MPH....no hint of a missfire from fireup to shutdown. The car in question had massive missfire issues before i did this instal. Idles like a baby and screams at full noise like a banshee.

Can do a deal on this stuff if you get me to do the instal...a lot of the guys at the Winternationals commented on the quality of the wiring job.

The above set-up is a bit OTT for 650hp....my engine makes around 1000hp and i use splitfires and the hks box with std igniter. I use a Vi-PEC V88 direct fire ecu though...bit better than the MoTeC.

Edited by DiRTgarage

the motec is direct fire..... you should know that, i said it only had 4 outputs,

i was going to use m&w ,m&w now do a 6 channel cdi system which only uses one ignition output to direct fire all 6 cdi channels, only for motec ecu's though

costs 2grand including coils

no need for ignition expander....

i want something sufficient enough to do the job properly and "reliably" i have acquired the computer for nothing so may aswell use it...

i asked the question because ive seen and heard of many many high powered cars running more basic systems rather than a full blown cdi system....

Edited by den001
the motec is direct fire..... you should know that, i said it only had 4 outputs,

i was going to use m&w ,m&w now do a 6 channel cdi system which only uses one ignition output to direct fire all 6 cdi channels, only for motec ecu's though

costs 2grand including coils

no need for ignition expander....

i want something sufficient enough to do the job properly and "reliably" i have acquired the computer for nothing so may aswell use it...

i asked the question because ive seen and heard of many many high powered cars running more basic systems rather than a full blown cdi system....

u knew what i meant though :P

well theres ur answer! get the m&w setup and never look back :P

To get around the waste spark issue you could purchase a motec ignition expander found a price on CAPA website for $340.... I run standard ignitor and splitfire at around that horsepower without problems. If you have spark issue down the track do what dirt does drop in a twin power....

u knew what i meant though :P

well theres ur answer! get the m&w setup and never look back :P

im a tight ass....

whats a set of splitfires worth and that hks box???

cdi is 2 grand complete

will there be much of a price difference

sweet as,

ive been doin some reading and there are some negatives in running a cdi system, ive also been reading about the hks box and it seems to have the best of both worlds.

runs in inductive and cdi modes automically........ hmmm hard choice....

Edited by den001
sweet as,

ive been doin some reading and there are some negatives in running a cdi system, ive also been reading about the hks box and it seems to have the best of both worlds.

runs in inductive and cdi modes automically........ hmmm hard choice....

Ive had a 2 M800's come in lately running stock coils with various amplifiers making high 500rwkw's and one making 522rwkw with the motec cdi and they all tuned up the same (no spark issues), i did not wire the ecu's so am not 100% sure on the specifics without looking into it, but i cant see you running into any issues especially if your tuner knows his motec gear.

i must admit it was nicer tuning the CDi's as they would ignite stupidly rich mixtures during setup etc and saved me time not having to change plugs :) Just for the excercise i did bit of a test and the Motec CDI could ignite mixtures all the way down to the limit of my wideband on 1.1mm gap using fine point race plugs.

Edited by URAS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...