Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

So I am doing a bit of research in preperation for a big upgrade for my car (pending results of a compression/leak down test :) )

Obviously what ECU you use is important and is a fairly large part of the upgrade expense.

Anyway I know every man and his dog has a Power FC, mainly because they are tried and tested and are known to work well. Which is all well and good. However they are fairly old now, are still quite expensive and are starting to get hard to come by. (Sort of anyway)

I was looking at finding a PFC and chucking on a z32 afm.

However, what are peoples thoughts on the Haltech Platinum Sport 2000?

Suposedly plug and play, comes with a built in map sensor (so no buying a z32)

Supports all sorts of funky things like Anti-lag and launch control (I am fairly sure the PFC doesn't)

Overall it seems to be more advanced then the PFC.

I did a search for Haltech related threads but there seems to be very little info regarding the PS2000.

If the PFC is still the better option, why? Are Haltech's horrible to tune? Do they not handle skylines well or something??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275215-haltech-ps2000-thoughts/
Share on other sites

The Platinum Sports ECU's replace the Haltech E11 and E8's im pretty sure. haltech has a reputation of being a very good ECU, plenty of people on here run the E11's. Only downside I see is that the PS2000's dont use knock control which is why it may be worthwhile considering a ViPEC or Link if your running a street car, but then on the other hand neither does PFC...

Ok thanks for that. Sounds like the Haltech isn't such a bad option. Not sure if the tuner I plan on going to is familiar with Vipec/Link, I think he more does Power FC and Haltech,

there is your answer, the ECU is really only as good as the tuner and you are more likley to get a better result with ecu's your tuner is familiar with

there is your answer, the ECU is really only as good as the tuner and you are more likley to get a better result with ecu's your tuner is familiar with

Totally agree, talk to your tuner and see what they recommend.

Cheers

Johno

Yes, and from what I understand although he has done Many PFC's, he is very experienced in Haltech, which got me looking at them. I was just kind of curious to see if there was any known issues regarding the PS2000 and skylines that others might have come across.

can you run a PS2000 on AFM's? or does it only work on a MAP sensor? I know the R35 and 370z one's use the AFM.

Yep you can still retain your AFM's with the Platinum 2000 and Platinum 2000 Pro. It also has a built in 2 bar MAP sensor.

Cheers,

Johno

I'm running a Platinum 1000 and can't complain, car runs very well and so far it seems very good on fuel, I've only driven it a couple times since its been installed and tuned.

I chose to run a 3 bar map sensor as it was cheaper than a Z32 and also with running the "external" map sensor I didn't have to run a vacuum line inside the cabin to the ecu.

  • 4 weeks later...

Haltech's are bringing out new Ecu's specifically for the R33 + R34's but they will be a few months, i dont know too much beyond that.. but i was talking to hitman about getting a 2000 and he said might be better to wait it out.. which i need to do anyway.. still gotta buy injectors etc.. so just buying all the goodies first, ecu last.

picking an ECU is a pretty important part of modifying your car

selecting the wrong ECU can cost you time, money and lots of frustration

the ECU plays a crucial role in how the car acts, runs, performs and drives

forget the max power rwkw for a moment and think about the important things to you and your car

essentially any ECU you choose will make the same power etc so thats not important

most people when they pick an ECU go - oh sick, no AFM, or sick as, it has anti lag, spark cut, pro launch etc

these are good buzz words but if your car is an average street car that you drive normally and it has a bit of power

whats the point of all these fangdangle features and junk? will they add any value or do they just sound cool?

the most important things for an ECU for a mild street car are - start first shot, cold start, fuel economy, ease of tune, resale value, plug and play and a simple interface. all of these "nice" features are thrown in the bin when you have to wire it in, have only 1 or 2 tuners who can tune it, if it ditches some of the factory sensors in place of aftermarket ones or has annoying operability.

you should understand the key differences between the various forms of technology to understand how the car wil be before/after the change.

do some reading on map sensors and airflow meters to understand which may be better in your situation and why

most people go - oh sick, it uses a map sensor, thats gotta be better - do some reading and double check, you may be surprised

be careful when selecting an ECU thats new on the market or isnt very common

when you are looking at these ecu's factor in how many workshops can tune it and how accessible they are

there is no point having the latest greatest ECU and only 1 workshop in your state can tune

then you are locked into their pricing, their service and their "timeframes" etc.

you will find on this forum a lot of people and probably some tuners, are biased towards the apexi powerfc

you will find this is simply due to their ease of use, access to trillions of tuners, cost, and plug and play

where's dirtgarage to flog the crap out of vipec yo

Nothing wrong at all with the Vipecs.

I know of one car currently being tuned in time for Jamboree with the new Haltech Ps2000, 13B engine with a T51R, so far they are having very positive results.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...