Jump to content
SAU Community

How Low Is Your Stagea?

darrinspencer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted
hahaha, just like hire cars are bestowed with special abilities, like eternal high revving motors........

just noticed your avatar! where did you get those photo's? do you have more? of mine maybe? that you promised? can you send me a link to them?

hint hint hint......buddy pal mate!!!!! :P

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

scottnothing Contributor

scottnothing

Posted
Posted
Looks pretty standard height wise.

How high do you want it?

If you are having an issue with that ride height, I would suggest that you forget all about a 3" turbo back exhaust!

I think the ride is/close to standard. it's the front bar and exhaust that give me dramas on steap inclines. it might also be that I'm not used to the length of it yet. I still haven't walked the whole way round it yet. I'm going to set a weekend aside for that. :P

Califunky Contributor

Califunky

Posted
Posted

Got mine sitting on Tanabe Sustec Pro coilies. Its currently been lowered about an inch over stock but its still not quite low enough for my tastes. Good thing theres at least another 1.5" available all round :P

Only problem then is the stupid speedbumps at the end of the road, right in the line of the sump and downpipe - i get scrapping now as it is.

Oh well

04062009181.jpg

04062009182.jpg

IOW002.jpg

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted

33gtrrims.jpg

lmsonstagea-1.jpg

fronts real low, as low as possible without strut bottoms sitting on the main arm (cant remember the name), rears arnt super low its actually at max height setting with a full tank of fuel to lower it

i think its around the 320mm mark from memory (im running bilsteins too with heaps of extra circlip grooves)

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted (edited)

thanks guys the skirts are not that nice (though without skirts the car looks even worse haha), they dont suit the way the door tucks under, im gonna modify them a fair bit i think, though they do look alot better in person and i got a few decent photos of the car from the HPI shoot but i cant post them online until its in the magazine. Ill throw the lmgt2s on and get it to somewhere decent and take a few pics soon when the new motor gets installed this weekend coming i hope :rofl: I got the front and rear bars for the nismo kit also sitting here im unsure if i like them or not, they will get test fitted soon as well and see how i like . Oh and the 33 gtr wheels need a 20mm spacer on the fronts they sit too far in the gaurds it looks abit shitty, the rears are spot on though.

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...