Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all, I don't get on the forums much these days, but I thought I'd share am easy way to fix gutter rash/minor curb damage on your rims.

Note: This will generally only work on silver/polished rims with small lip on edge of the main lip (if ya get what I mean!). But may be able to be used on other wheel for various functions such as sanding before paint/powder coating etc.

A while ago I bought some second hand Brabus rims for my ride. They were in good general condition, with the usual minor nicks here and ther. One of the front wheels had gutter rash all around the outer lip. It wasn't too deep, but it was damn ugly. Now, I am a cheap bastard being half asian, but I also love giving things a crack. I had heard the local rim repairer couldn't do 19" rims, but never bothered to investigate, so I decided I'd give fixing these a go myself.

First I went out and bought two cheapish files, a straright cut bastard, and a plain flat bastard. I was having new tyres put on, so had the current Hankooks removed as I was gonna sell them off anyway. While the tyre was off I got down to work and did this.

First photo is of original curbage when I bought them. And I have used the same method twice, second time was for my bros small curb incident. (He did send me a nice set of Bahco files though!)

Original curbage around lips lip! All the way around

Curbrash.jpg

Tyre is removed from wheel, car is jack up (axle stands used of course!) at the back and rim put on. Essentially this is the poor mans lathe. So to clairfy. The cars rear end is up, and on axle stands. I can't remember if I removed the othe side wheel, but I think I did. I tryed the car in 1st gear with the engine at warm idle. It was a bit too slow.

Image0111.jpg

I found second gear with the car at idle to be a great speed for the wheel to spin at. And basically I sit there with the files (straight cut bastard and a standard flat bastard) and work the curb rash away. Here you can see metal I have worked from the rim. After the rash was removed, I did a rough sand, then a finer sand. I can't remember the grits, but I'd imagine 180-200 and 300-400.

Image0109.jpg

First time I did it, I was having new tyres put on anyway, and second time round I had the tyres rotated (staggered set, directional tyres,can't rotate whole wheel). So all up it cost me only time and about $30 for the two files.

After the file I sanded it to a smoother finish, then applied a little metal polish. No need to paint as it looks fine how it is!

Pretty easy and cheap for an arvos work. As you can see, this won't work on all rims, but may be adapted to do some of the work yourself if you are having your wheels painted/powder coated etc.

Please also note that safety must be considered paramount at all times. Axle stands must be used at all times and a second person should be there in case of emergency. Keep hands away form the wheel spokes. You get a hand caught in there and your in a whole world of hurt. I take no responsibility if you are injured trying this process out.

Good luck, I hope this helps some of you!

Richie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275277-cheap-curb-rash-fix/
Share on other sites

yeah what they said .. if you're broke and can't afford a proper fix worth a try I guess. But seeing as how most pros charge $60-100 per wheel depending on damage, it's hardly worth the effort imho.

I got quoted $200 by Magman in Sydney to fix 2 wheels .. both have pretty bad gutter rash all around the outer lip and one of the wheels has a rather large chunk of metal (about 3-4cm) sticking out and needs to be welded back on

  • 2 weeks later...

so your sitting there with a file rubbing against the wheel while your car is jacked up and running on second gear. your broke but are you retarted as well? i would never trust jack/axle stands with the car running in gear at the same time. fromt he viberations of the cars running gear if the car falls you will get hurt pretty bad and your car will get damaged also.

i eman the results you got are great

but your method is very risky and id rather drive my car aroud with gutter rash and save up rather then doing it this way

  • 6 months later...

I dont know what some of you are complaining about. if you set it up properly it is perfectly safe.

i just did this, works great. after i finished with the file, i used some 120 sand paper and then finished off with 400.

i saved myself $150 a wheel and i actually enjoyed doing it.

i would be more worried about people hurting themselves with the tyre levers trying to get the tyre off the rim than actually hurting themselves filing the rim (i've changed a few sets of tyres on rims manually before and have had 1 or 2 close calls with tyre levers going flying up into the air). if you were worried about running the car to smooth out the rim, you could always just take the rim off and sit it on the ground and file it. wouldn't come out as nice though.

  • 3 weeks later...

you could always just hold the file on the outter side of the wheel so if you do slip your hand simple goes into the wheel arch, and if it does happen to hit the wheel it will only be the outside of the rim.

but to the people who are actually scared of this, there are a hell of a lot of more dangerous tools out there. basically all he is doing is using the car as a lathe. nothing scary there. i'd be more scared of a simply angle grinder than doing this (and i'm not scared of an angle grinder, although i am still cautious with them).

  • 3 months later...

Dont do this in an enclosed garage either... exhaust poisoning anyone???

But seriously, there are some people out there who should not be near tools, if they can handle them selves, and are farily good with this kind of thing... BIG dollar savings to be had.

I have done this in the past, just as long as you use common sense you should be ok. I also had a 2m kilswitch line rigged up too, so if you need to... hit the big red button. everything will stop rotating soon enough (especially in gear)

2nd person nearby is a VERY good idea aswell.

Not too shabby of a method. Provided you have a nice flat surface. People worrying about losing their hands. I doubt very much you need to apply such pressure onto the bastard to start shaving the wheel. Light pressure and keep your hands away from the gears. I would have tried this except my rims aren't silver, they're painted and I cbf matching the paint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...