Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody,

I am having an issue with my M35 where my righthand headlight (low beam only) is not working. I have just changed the bulb only to have no success. On further probing, it seems that there is no voltage to the plug at all. I have checked all the fuses I can find (both next to the battery in the engine bay and in drivers side footwell and cannot find any duds. Trying to trace the wires through the engine bay I can across no fuses and eventually the loom disappeared into the passenger side of the firewall. I have also tried the ECU fault codes check on the CEL just in case, which reported no faults.

Has anybody else come across this problem or know of any other fuse box that I am missing?

Any assistance would be really appreciated thanks

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275556-m35-headlight-problem/
Share on other sites

I woud imagine that this might have been screwed up when they removed your Xenons during compliance.

I would get onto the dealer you bought the car from or the compliance workshop. They really should sort this out for you, especially if you are still in the manditory 3 month warranty period.

Hmm I might give the compliance workshop a call about that, however im not sure it is their fault as the headlight was working when I got the car. Im not in my warranty period, but they certainly might know how to fix it though.

Thanks,

Brendan

remove halogens and install aftermarket HID :P

if you think its a fuse, then they are located behind the battery. youll need to remove the cover around the battery. and im not talking about the little fuse box in front of the battery, that would be too easy :)

Edited by zei20l
I woud imagine that this might have been screwed up when they removed your Xenons during compliance.

I would get onto the dealer you bought the car from or the compliance workshop. They really should sort this out for you, especially if you are still in the manditory 3 month warranty period.

that is if they still have the Xenon ballasts/globes. Most workshops that disconnect (cut) the Xenon's throw out all the good stuff - as was the case with a mates V35.

Try to get them to supply you with what the missing stuff if they have it (I doubt they will wire it in as non-automatically adjustable Xenon's don't pass ADR).

They may have left everything in the light and just wired up the halogen's (as Northshore used to do). You will have to look in the back of the light for the thick silver Xenon connector.

remove halogens and install aftermarket HID :P

+1

or instead of aftermarket stuff, I may have a set of NM35 headlights you could buy :)

cam, PM me with how much you want for the headlights if you decide to sell. i have aftermarket HIDs but i prefer factory :)

First in best dressed my friend. When I confirm that my new lights are A1, I will let you know about mine.

Still interested in tinting?

Scott, if you want a hand with your lights, give me a yell.

Edited by iamhe77
cam, PM me with how much you want for the headlights if you decide to sell. i have aftermarket HIDs but i prefer factory :(

Are you at it again, sheesh :)

That t-shirt get's a lot use, no wonder it's got holes in it :)

I know this is offtopic - but does anyone know if the factory headlights can have the height adjusted manually? Mine shine pretty much straight ahead instead of down at the road in front of me. So I can see signs lit up for miles but not much in front of the car. Its enough to drive with but could be lots better if they can be adjusted.

yup

on the back of the headlight unit are some manual adjustment screws. as for exactly where, or which direction to turn im not sure, but im 150% sure they are there. they must be there actually for minor adjustments etc.

just beware there will be a seperate pair of adjustment for lo and hi beam

Thankyou everyone for your suggestions, I will be sure to pull the whole headlight out tonight or tomorrow and see if I can find the problem wiring. At least I also have a working headlight to check the correct wiring on lol. Thanks again and I will keep you posted on what the findings are.

Brendan

Hi everybody,

I am having an issue with my M35 where my righthand headlight (low beam only) is not working. I have just changed the bulb only to have no success. On further probing, it seems that there is no voltage to the plug at all. I have checked all the fuses I can find (both next to the battery in the engine bay and in drivers side footwell and cannot find any duds. Trying to trace the wires through the engine bay I can across no fuses and eventually the loom disappeared into the passenger side of the firewall. I have also tried the ECU fault codes check on the CEL just in case, which reported no faults.

Has anybody else come across this problem or know of any other fuse box that I am missing?

Any assistance would be really appreciated thanks

Brendan

Yere i have had the same problem with my c34(lefthand headlight) have brought a HID kit so im hoping that fixes the problem.

Edited by mrRS4
  • 4 weeks later...
yup

on the back of the headlight unit are some manual adjustment screws. as for exactly where, or which direction to turn im not sure, but im 150% sure they are there. they must be there actually for minor adjustments etc.

just beware there will be a seperate pair of adjustment for lo and hi beam

Just tried this last night with help from my dad, and we just got more and more confused the more we tried to align the headlights.

Basically from what we worked out, both screws adjust both lo and hi beam, and they seem to work against each other. ie. using a ratchet, and turning both screws the same way, one brings both lo & hi beam up, the other brings them down. Change the direction on the ratchet and they are both reversed.

From what we worked out, you have to keep doing one then the other, and that will move the beam either to the left or to the right. Hope that makes sense. In other words, one of them adjusted it upwards, but slightly to the right. Turning the other in the same direction moved the beam downards but also to the right. So you can use both working against each other to adjust the height and left-right angle of the beam.

From what we could tell, there was no independant adjustment for lo vs hi beam. They both moved when we turned either screw. So it was a case of finding a happy medium where the low beam was low enough and the high beam still high enough.

If anyone else has more info on how the adjustments work PLEASE feel free to share it.

Also I read recently about the headlight adjustment on the dash - does this work? I always thought the motor for this was disconnected in compliance...I'd be thrilled if it worked. That'd be one awesome feature to have.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...